Monday, November 29, 2010

Prague, our new favourite city.

Milan Villach via Venice 21 Oct 2010
The trip to Milan was smooth. After a perfect landing at Malpensa at about 6.45 am, we breezed through the immigration etc and were out of the airport in less than ten minutes. Found the bus going to the city outside Terminal 1-exit 6-stop 3, paid 15 euros for two tickets and got in, it was still early. The driver said it would take about an hour to to reach milano centrale station, there are no trains from the airport so you have to take the bus if you are going to centrale. It took an hour and twenty minutes to reach. Once inside, went to the ticketing office to activate the euro rail pass, then decided to go up to the platform as we already tickets. There was a red booth from which we were directed to an office at the end of the station where we had the pass activated. She said we have ti make reservation on the train to Venice at the red booth, but they said they don't do that and sent us back to the corner office who sent us back to the red booth who sent us down to the ticket office, saying we need to take the train from another station, lamb rate or something . Irritated at having missed two trains in half an hour, and impatient for the next train, stood in the queue. After about ten minutes, the counter lady helped make reservation and said the next train leaves from centrale at 1120. When we asked about going to Villach from Venice, she said we need to reserve on the bus as well, which she did. On the train, we paid fifty euro fine for not filling in the date on the pass. Add that to the surly woman at the tabachi shop who, when we asked to change from a twenties pack to a ten one, made it look like we asked her to climb the alps. All in all an annoying experience at Milan, must be the big city thing.
Reached Venice in about three hours, found sector D at piazza le roma, and after a half hour wait, took the OBB bus to Villach. The driver who also places your luggage in the compartment, was pleasant, as were the people at holiday inn, villach. A really small, cleantown with a church, bell tower, supermarkets, drug stores, some restaurants, and pharmacies, Villach is good for a short break in the journey. Took the train to Vienna in the morning. Both the girls at the counter, at night and in the morning were helpful and pleasant.

The hotel intercontinental is all right, is within walking distance to many attractions, went to a Mozart concert at the golden room of Musikverien performed by the Vienna group. Excellent performance. Turned out it was the last performance of the season at the golden room, we just happened to ask the concierge about concerts and he said this was on, and could get tickets in a minute!
It was a good thing we asked at the concierge because the young boy at the reception who checked us in had non clue, he said everything will be closed on weekends and actually said we could only visit the zoo. I'll informed he was, as it turned out everything was open, except the shops were closed on Sunday. The Imperial Palace was quite interesting, the empress, wife of Franz Josef, was an unhappy woman. Obviously all the money and comforts and luxuries in the world are enough to make you happy.
Among the shops closed are supermarkets and mini marts that sell water and other essentials, so had to buy a half a litre bottle for over 2 euros.
Now on the way to Salzburg.
Remembered to write the date of journey on the ticket, the ticket guy said we should write our passport numbered as well, which we did. And he was polite, unlike the Italian conductor, Mr.Play-by-the-rules.
Half-way through to Salzburg (btw, Rail Jet is a superb train where first class feels like first class), it started snowing. Apparently, but not unsurprisingly, it wasn't supposed to be snowing now. The soon-to-turn-into-disgusting-slush was on the first leg of its journey, covering the whole of the town in powdery white flakes. The weather seemed to have gotten to the Tourist Info people right outside the station, as they brusquely let us (and others in the queue) know that they don't know anything, no train info, no city info, nothing. Wondering what they were getting paid for other than being rude to strangers, we went to the other tourist info office next to it, and met with a similar experience. The woman at the counter had no idea about anything the town had to offer. There was a guy there who seemed to know but was busy. Anyway, got a map from the ignorant one and set out. Asked for directions at a cafe where we had coffee. It seems people in small shops are quite all right, it's the rest of the supposedly helpful that aren't.
The walk to Mozart's house where he was born and lived the early years of his life, took about 20 minutes and was pleasant (as we've never walked in the falling snow). This was the primary reason that woke us up and made us walk through the snow and endure the non-existent Austrian hospitality. It was worth it as I've always wanted to see it. Took snaps of some of his manuscripts and the organ he composed some of his famous pieces on. Had lunch at a touristy place but was quite decent though (the waiter said he had been to Goa, found it nice). Once we were back, changed and ordered room service.

The next day was Belevedere palace I think. Was ok, personally, didn't find it all that exciting. Walked over to the Imperial Palace side and had coffee and apple pie at the famed Central Cafe. Quite nice I must admit. Checked out the Royal Crown collection which also had the sword that pierced Jesus's side.

Went to the Testarossa cafe we visited the first day we came to Vienna, had coffee and used the wireless to call Savic Hotel in Prague to arrange for pick up from the train station, the lasy told us to write all the train details etc to her which we did. All shops were closed again for the national day so we just hung around discovering places like Stephansplatz and the main square. (One of these days was karma chaut and Apu skipped meals and water during till sunset, as did I.) And had dinner at Cafe Mozart.
Must admit, they are milking his name to the last drop here.

About Vienna: Found it a bit boring, really. Catching a concert is worth it. The hotel (as most hotels, apparently) we stayed in (Intercontinental) were technologically challenged, in that they were charging 18 euros for net access, while some cafes were giving it free. People are machine-like, unsmiling, brusque and cold. Not unfriendly but just brusque.

Prague, on the other hand, was fantastic. Met an elderly gentleman on the train who shared our couchette, who was from Prague but been living in Canada for over 40 years. He pointed to a hotel near a station on the way where he and his folks used to stop over every time they travelled out of the capital. And it was still there.

The taxi guy from the hotel wasn't there as we went out, so had to call the hotel, and went to the platform where he was waiting. 16 euros. Or 400 kroners.
The hotel was just beautiful. Close to all the attractions, tucked away in a corner in the Old Town Square, it was a convent (much like Morandi in Florence) before which has been converted into lovely boutique hotel with elegant, well-appointed rooms (bathroom had MoltonBrown shampoo and body wash). There was free wireless but worked better when you stepped out of the room into the foyer, said Lenka who checked us in.
Went to the main piazza near by through narrow, cobble-stoned streets lined with souvenir shops, hole-in-the-wall shops selling local sweetmeat and coffee, bigger ones selling branded goods.
The Astronomical Clock is just 2 minutes away, and it's a great experience to be there among the crowd of people. The crowds gather much before the clock strikes, because on the hour, every hour, 12 apostles go by in the recesses of the long clock, and a rooster next to them crows, after which a bugler blows a particular tune that he doesn't change, at all, on any day!

As luck would have it, there was a weekend spice and cheese market open in the square selling all kinds of local foodstuff. The atmosphere was was festive and lively, with families and tourists alike milling around, eating and drinking at makeshift tables, and the food, although not very cheap, was worth it.

There are cheaper alternatives besides the weekend market, you'll find them around the main square, in the narrow gulleys and street corners, selling everything from pizza slices to hot dogs to the local sweetmeat and beer. Upscale restaurants are there too, obviously. Food is pretty good no matter where you eat.

We spent our time strolling along the beautiful cobblestoned streets, ducking into cafes and souvenir shops and a couple of times, into Swarovski even. They have a local shop chain that supports local handicraft items called Manufaktura. They stock some very interesting stuff.

There a quite a few day places you can see cover on a day trip like Kutna Hora, which is an hour or so from Prague. Hotels usually have a guided tour which is hassle- free, so we took one and went to the erstwhile silver centre of Czech republic. The city has a grand past owing to the discovery of silver mines, but with the decline of the precious metal, and Prague took over from its neighbor. It's a small city with a few churches and restaurants, the most interesting in a macabre way is the bone church. Apparently an abbot long time back got some soil from the holy and and sprinkled it all over this place and everybody wanted to be buried here, which resulted in a heavy bone mass, so to speak. So an artist was commissioned to find a creative way out for the ossified remains, which he did. The whole interior looks like a grateful dead cover album, in 3D.
There is a mint factory where the dollar had its birth, said the guide, apparently the Spanish took the silver called Tallar and took it to America where it became the dollar.
Returned after a decent lunch.
A visit to the castle is a must, and is easily walkable from the old town square, it takes about half an hour. On the way, you can stop and marvel at the karlova most aka charles bridge. The castle is impressive, as is the politeness of the staff working there, down to the old ladies who take your coat and umbrellas. I guess after Vienna (and Milan), these human qualities tend to take on a great deal of importance. On the whole, as an aside, we found the czechs very affable, agreeable and friendly and easy to communicate to as they all speak English.

Two days before we werre to check out of Savic, we were just checking about airport transfer and what time the car will come to pick us up when the receptionist said we are checking out the next day as the extra night has been cancelled! Unbelievable, but luckily the girls managed to get a reservation at a hotel right behind Savic and which was equally classy and good as we found out later and the GTA people had upgraded us to junior suite to make amends. All is well that ends in an upgrade.
Prague also has numerous concerts every day which are usually held at churches to generate money for the church we were told. Mozart wrote Don Giovanni and staged it here first and there is a puppet version of it as well.
We took a flight back to Milan after the helpful guy at the tourist office booked and oriented our boarding pass on easy jet. Took the bus again to centrale and walked to the hotel which was about five minutes by foot. The street was lined with hotels and seemed safe. When the reception guy asked how we were I answered 'wet' as it was raining when we reached. Berna had received rave reviews on trip advisor but we felt it didn't live up to the reviews, it wasn't bad, mind you, it was no Savic. The hotel has been revamped in jts transformation to a smoke free environment, but there is an old smell about it. The positive aspect was that everything in the room fridge is free. The location was another plus. The staff were just ok except for the ones who hailed from the neighboring countries.
Next day we went to Bologna for lunch, where it was raining also but less. Took a train to Florence just for fun as it was just less than half an hour from there. It wasn't all that fun when we discovered that there were no seats on the train back. But the counter clerk was very patient and explored a couple of options and we took the most reasonable one which involved going to Pisa central and taking a connecting train which reached Milan past midnight. We have never gone back that late anywhere in all our trips. With that worry niggling us, we went into the rainy night and discovered that the cafe we sued to have our morning coffee on earlier trips was closed. It was easy to find our way to santa croce area, the restaurant we had papa pomedero was closed, so retraced our steps, bought some pasta and sauce mixes at a friendly store where they recommended us a place for dinner down the road, and it was nice food (il gustino I tank the name was).
When we reached the station, we found that the train was delayed by 20 minutes. Which meant we had about ten minutes to find the platform, carriage and catch the connecting train. The AV train, the new super fast trains between many cities, was delayed too by hours. A bit nervous and with prayers, we boarded the train which came 25 minutes late. When we got off at Pisa, we met a group of three college girls who had to get to Milan and go to Sevilla. We raced to the platform and luckily the train was 20 minutes late as well. The only issue was getting to the hotel so late. The ride seemed to take really long, and when we reached Milan, it was past one in the morning. We walked confidently across the empty square in front of the station, saw one African looking chap who went into another street, and another traveller who turned into a street before our hotel. Thanking God profusely, we hit the sack. In hindsight, staying near the station seems a good idea, as we always avoid hotels near train stations. This was an exception.
We were planning to go to Parma the next day, but decided against it after standing in the queue at the station for a few minutes, and went to explore the city instead. Bought a few things, had lunch near the Duomo, ice cream on the way back to the hotel.
Took the 8.15 Malpensa bus And headed to the airport, checked in early and saw the same couple we met on the way to Venice. We managed to use our points to upgrade to Business on the way back to Singapore, so that was fantastic. Again, all is well that ends in an upgrade.