ITALY TRIP
Day 1 – 7/9
All roads may lead to Rome but the signs could be a bit confusing, especially at the Da Vinci (Fumicini) airport and the Central Stazione. After a 13-14 hr flight from Singapore on Thai (with an hour at Bangkok, btw, not many smiles contrary to their claims, on board or off) we landed at 8 in the morning. Breezed through the immigration (it’s only the visa people who make life difficult, it would seem their primary function is to deter anybody from entering their country and spending money on their soil).
It’s a fairly big airport and, after asking directions to the Leonardo Express to go to the Central stazione, we promptly went to a completely different place. Must have been the really strong caffe we had at the coffee shop. Retracked, re-asked and found our way to the station which is outside the terminal. Bought ticket, and here’s a quick lesson: you have to validate your ticket on most trains in Italy except on EuroStar. What you need to do is look for a yellow box like thing at the head of the platform and try not to feed your ticket, which is what we did. You’re supposed to hold the ticket and insert it till you hear an invisible man go ‘frrrrp’ and you’re ready to board the train. The ride to centre takes about 20 minutes.
At the station, which is quite big again, we took the wrong exit and almost hired a solitary taxi guy looking for suckers. But he didn’t count on meeting two well-informed tourists (even though he had the SPQR sign on his taxi he wasn’t an honest one – not everyone with the approved sign displayed are what they seem). We had checked well in advance how much the fare would be (7 – 8 euros), so we were not going to just hand him the 20 he asked for. He stopped and we got off. Back to the Stazione, this time we walked for what seemed like half an hour, 10 minutes in real, earth time, found the right exit, the right taxi stand and a long queue. There was a tout but we ignored him. About 15 minutes we got a legit taxi, showed him where the hotel we had booked on the Net was on a map, he said,’ si, si’ and took us there in less than 5 minutes. It cost 7 euros. Honesty calls for a tip and we tipped him a euro I think.
The hotel was on one of Rome’s main attraction, the Spanish Steps. Went to the building with the right door number but the hotel wasn’t there. There was a keypad like thing with various floor numbers and pierret palio bianco was on 4. When pressed the receptionist came online and asked us to come up. In the foyer of the building was an elevator straight out of a Bogart (he probably used it last) movie. Took that up to our floor, Jada, the receptionist, said a big welcoming Hi and showed us our room. Nice place, a bit small but clean and comfortable. It was past 10 and no breakfast but she made superb cappuccino for us.
Went to explore. Right next to the hotel was the Spanish Steps. Opposite that is a street that has boutiques carrying all the names associated with haute couture, from Armani to Zegna, sort of a fashion street, to coin a phrase. Running perpendicular, like a T, is del Corso, with Piazza del Popollo on the right end and Piazza de Venezia on the left. We took the right and had a bite at one of the cafes there opposite Santa Maria (Italy has a lot of Santa Marias) called Café Canavo, at a distant past it used to cater to right wing activists as opposed to the other restaurant across which welcomed, you guessed it, leftists. They serve (not just them) Pizza Bianca or plain pizza with salt and olive oil, we’ve never had it anywhere else. Also had the first tryst with expensive atmosphere. In Italy, most restaurants charge you more if you are sitting down al fresco than they would if you stood at the bar and had your food or coffee.
Walking, we thought was a good way to work off the lunch, so we walked straight into a gelataria. Never knew a cone could hold so much ice cream. Walked further down del Corso and we reached the Pantheon. First tourist spot and we didn’t even check the map. Also the first encounter with Rome’s history. As with all of Rome’s attractions it’s the scale on which these structures are built that’s mind boggling. This one was built as a temple to pagan gods, later became ‘baptised’ and now receives tourists. It’s a circular building with tombs dedicated to various masters of the Renaissance period including Raphael around the periphery. There are statues above them. The dome has a hole in the middle that lets in rain and the floor has 22 holes to let it out. Ancient plumbing.
Walked back and crossing the road, hit the Trevi fountain. Another impressive thing about the Eternal City is that at an innocuous street corner you’ll find a monument built by Bernini or Michelangelo. This is one such attraction. Crowds, eager to come back, throw coins into the fountain (hope springs eternal and all that). We did too, of course we didn’t know we were supposed to throw it over the shoulder so we just chucked it in.
It was evening already and after looking briefly at a massive structure (there was a man in the middle of the road trying to fit it into his view finder) we moved on. Later we’d realise that all roads in Rome lead to this place, called the Piazza de Venezia, just as we’d discover later that all roads in Florence lead to the Duomo.
On the way back, we stopped at Café Greco, a favourite haunt for the likes of Lord Byron and Casanova. (coincidentally, Keats and Shelly house is just next to the Spanish Steps next to our hotel). Very good coffee. They don’t serve dinner as they close at 7.30 but you can order salads and pastries. The guy making the coffee asked us where we were from. ‘Oh India? I’ve been there once, Bombay, 15 years ago,’ he reminisced. Hit hotel after coffee.
For dinner went to a place supposedly graced by Madonna. I made an exception to the thumb rule ‘when you are used to vegetarian fare, stick to it’. I didn’t like the chicken I ordered. Apu had a vegetarian dish which was good. The wine wasn’t bad.
Day 2 – 9 Sep
Breakfast in room. Capuccino was as good as yesterday and as lukewarm. Some berad rolls, jam, yogurt and juice. Out of the hotel and turned left to mill among the tourists who had already started to trickle in to the Spanish Steps. Walked to the Spagna metro which was at the end of the small gulley next to the hotel. Bought tickets at a shop that sells water, cigarattes etc., (opposite this shop was another booth selling metro tickets). Peaceful ride, no need to hold onto your belongings for you dear life. Just like any other metro. Stations reminded us of the ones in Spain. Changed trains at Termini, took the blue line (we were on red line, metro is simple in Rome, just two lines, blue and red, or Linea A and B that cross Termini) to Colosseum, about 3 stops from Termini and 5 from Spagna.
The ancient theatre of bloody, cruel sports (not unlike today's Old Trafford) rises up to meet you as you emerge from the metro. It’s true what they say about Rome being an open air museum, right outside a metro, a 2000 year old monument! Went past a few, ‘Do you speak English? I can be your guide and help you cut the queue’, guides. Harmless, not too pushy. Most were women.
The queue wasn’t long. Took us about 15 minutes (that’s what it says on the board above the counter, 15 mins for individuals and 10 for groups) to get the ticket and an audio guide. Stepped on the ground where senators and slaves, gladiators and glory hunters, victors and victims played out their roles thousands of years ago. Amazing! You would imagine a massive structure like this would have been witness to feats that were a celebration of lofty human ideals like courage, sportsmanship, the endurance of human spirit and the like, instead of just blood and gore. Come to think of it, much of today’s sports isn’t any different, the baying for blood on soccer stadiums all over the world during derby matches, or the deep-rooted hatred that surfaces during matches between neighbours no matter what the sport, but the only difference is no one dies, unless of course one is a South American soccer player who scores an own goal in an international fixture. Not much in the way of progress, it would seem.
Lunch at a Time Out recommended restaurant called Café Café close to the Colosseum. Wooden tables with recycled paper mats and paper napkins in a cone shaped pocket, like a flattened version of what a peanut vendor back home gives his goods in. Food was good, as was the wine. Reasonable price. There were just two staff members attending to an almost packed place: a guy and a girl with the latter doing most of the work with no signs of stress or irritation. Deserved a tip.
Walked from there in the general direction of Roman Forum. We were walking on the road that leads away from the Colosseum, not sure how to get into the Forum, and decided to take a photograph when a couple on a bike stopped to ask us the same thing. Two minutes after admitting ignorance we found the entrance which was a bare 20 yards from where we were standing.
The Roman Forum was a place where ancient Romans used to meet and gossip, about 2000 years ago, Some of the remains are still there, columns that must have supported some massive structure now looking up to the sky, broken stones with half the inscriptions missing, boulders from days gone by that must have been part of some hall…another proof to the city’s open air museum sobriquet. Stumbled onto a where St. Peter and St. Paul were incarcerated.
On the way out saw this massive square. There were two huge, absolutely huge, sculptures of an old man on either side of a fountain. In front of it was a statue of Caesar on horseback, As you step away from it to admire its massive scale you realize it’s in the middle of an intersection, then you also realize all roads in Rome lead to Piazza Venezzia. From there we took a route which would become a familiar one later. Back by 6 pm.
Another Time Out restaurant for dinner. This was close to the hotel, called Il Margutta. A leisurely 10, 12 minute walk from the Spanish Steps (the road on the right and take a right again) is all it takes. It’s at the end of the street. Superb service. Lovely wine, (Antonutti Merlot 15 euros). Great food. ( I had spinach ricotta soufflé with parmigiano sauce and Apu had lasagne di pachino with a totally delicious dessert: blanc mange, has mascarpone in it among other things). And completely vegetarian.
Day 3 – 10/9
Breakfast in room, same fare. Took the train to metro Ottaviano, that’s where the Vatican is. Yesterday we had called a tour guide highly recommended by Apu’s colleague. A company called Icon Tours. He said for us to wait near the obelisk and look out for guide looking character carrying a blue folder. The guides over here use a folder, or an umbrella or a banner with the company’s name on it and lead their respective groups, It works especially in a place which sees millions of visitors every day. A shoot was in progress on the way to the Basilica at the street corner. Some crowd had gathered thinking the St,Peter’s basilica isn’t going anywhere but the shoot may shift location soon.
The obelisk which is the centre of San Pietro Piazza with Bernini’s elliptical collonade on either side. There were two fountains on either side of the obelisk as well, one of them, you guessed it, was designed by Bernini. Bernini and Michelangelo seemed to have designed and built every possible fountain, monument and café in Rome.
Vatican may be the smallest state in the world but its power as the seat of Catholicism is expressed through vast scale of San Pietro. Starting from the colonnades to the basilica and its impressive architecture to the imposing, awe inspiring paintings and sculptures inside the museum. Mainly because the masters at work were imposing and impressive to say the least.
Michelangelo lived here till the ripe age of 90 and didn’t get paid for more than a handful of assignments farmed out by the Church. Free masterpieces! Recommended by Bramen to the pope looking for someone to paint the Sistine chapel ceiling, Michelangelo takes up the job. That he was not very popular among his peers was evident from Bramen’s recommendation, which stemmed more from his desire to see Michelangelo fail than from giving any noble intention of helping a fellow artist.
But Michelangelo, known only for his sculpting skills, takes up the job. His FIRST fresco! And what better place to begin than the Sistine chapel. Soon world gets around of his need for assistants to something big. Sure enough, scores of artists converge on Rome to work with the master. After 2 years, he fires them all! Not because he isn’t happy with them, but because he has learnt all he had wanted to about fresco and wants to hog the glory for the effort. If you look at the first three panels, which took about 2 years, they are quite different from the rest, which also were finished in 2 years! The first three lack details, proportions etc.,
Busted myth: He didn’t paint lying on his back, he was standing on the scaffolding he designed and built. At the end of the project his knee was inflamed from years on his feet which finds its way in one of the panels. [Another myth that was busted was about Nero playing the violin when the city was on fire. Two things were slightly off with this myth. One, he was in his bath at the time of the fire. Two, the violin hadn’t been invented then. So there is little truth in the stories about a violin placed in the box with the sign above saying, ‘ in case of fire, break glass’. ]
No photography is allowed inside the chapel, no talking and no noise. Ironically, the guards yelling ‘Silence’to people who couldn’t keep their mouth shut, understandably, at the awe-inspiring masterpieces above, was louder than the collective murmur they were trying to shush.
Many little interesting details surfaced about the painters. It had almost all of the masters working on the project. Since they were not allowed to sign their name, they would leave a tell-tale sign. Some, for instance, would paint their self-portrait in the crowd. Or some, who were indebted to the fellow artist who taught them a trick or two, would show their appreciation by drawing their pet animal. Michelangelo, typical of his temperament, drew an unflattering painting of one of the popes who didn’t approve of his rendition of god, who is shown with his rear end to the admirers below.
The whole tour took about 4 hours. Douglas, the tour guide, offered to give a free tour of the Basilica to all those who hadn’t taken it before. We went with a couple of others, one of them a Spurs fan, from England. He said he and his wife were in Singapore a year or so ago.
The St. Peter Basilica. Massive. Ornate. Bernini and Michelangelo. You know the rest. The long letters along the wall were 6,7 feet though they look about 2 feet from ground level. Parallax error.
Thanked him profusely, and went to the restaurant (Francesco) he recommended in Piazza Novano area, crossing bridges built by Bernini. Good food. Nice atmosphere. While we were struggling with the menu to see how we could order I Italian, the guy came and offered some friendly advice, in English. There were people playing chess in the café opposite with a young man beating his older opponent and cackling loudly. Sicilian defence, I’m sure. Next to us sat what looked like a mafia family, complete with the head of the family speaking in a raspy, boss-like voice. No horse’s head was served though, barring the ones on chessboards opposite our table. Later went to a gelataria, recommended by Douglas, for the most delicious tartouffou. The place is called Trescalini, and right opposite is another equally good but considerably cheaper gelataria called café Columbia. In between the two is a Bernini fountain which represents the four mighty rivers of the world, Ganga being one of them.
Day 4 – 11/9
After the usual cappuccino, breakfast ritual, went looking for another Time Out eatery. After a long walk, just when we were about to give up, we found this little restaurant called La Zozone - a cramped place with two tables inside and maybe twice as many outside. They serve pizza Bianca with any three fillings/toppings. One more and the guy says, ‘no, finito’, moving his hands over the pizza. People were friendly, the crowd was increasing and the food was good.
Took another walk and found another Tartuffo place at Trescalini, different from and opposite to the one we went to last night. This was a lot cheaper without any compromise on the deliciousness of the dessert. When I went to the toilet, a large woman emerged from the men’s room, almost non-chalantly.
Got back after a long walk again. In the evening, the main thoroughfare, del corso was closed to vehicular traffic (this being Saturday was our logic), and there were just people milling around hogging the whole road.
At the hotel, Alberto, the receptionist, had a strange case of his 15 seconds. Apparently every time he looked out the window, the girls’ section of the tourists thronging the Spanish Steps went wild thinking he was a celebrity. He wasn’t too bad looking either.
After freshening up, went to another Time Out recommended restaurant for dinner. Matricinella. Service wasn’t all that good, a bit on the cold side. Donated one euro to a budding accordion player for exhibiting his skills for less than a minute. Just as we were ruing it another three piece band played really well and deservedly got their one euro.
Back to hotel. Packed for tomorrow’s train trip to Florence.
Day 512/9/04
Firenze
To exhibit our prowess as a local, we decided to take the metro to the Termini. We were pleasantly surprised at the organized way Trenitalia was running the show. Figured out the coach no. and seat no. on the ticket. Confirmed with the lady at a desk at the head of the platform (there’s one at the head of each platform, they are friendly and helpful who answer all your inane questions about the train schedule etc.,) and we were set to board. Since we were early, we had some time on our hands, which we used to buy a nice, detailed map of Florence at the station’s book store (a one litre bottle of water was less than a euro) and indulge in a quick flash-back of how we were running around the Termini trying to figure out about taxis and such, four days can make you something of an expert. Came back and the train was waiting. Boarded the train but the door to the cabin wouldn’t open, despite pushing buttons that seemed to be there for that purpose. An Italian guy from behind was trying to tell something in native tongue, which we figured was, not to mess around with the button (which looked like a sticker), all we had to do was to stand in front of the doors and they would open. Put the suitcases in the storage bin near the door and the rest in the overhead compartment. Stretched our legs and traveled in style to Firenze.
It took 90 minutes to Santa Maria Novellla, Florence. No trouble finding a taxi. No trouble with the taxi guy or finding the place. He was honest and hence deserved a euro tip when he dropped us at La Stanza Da Croce. An envelope with my name on it was on the front desk as we were told in our email it would, And the owner, Mariangela, was waiting upstairs for us. Intro. Smiles. Quick advice on where to eat etc., To the room. Very nicely furnished with a terrace.
Stepped out to explore and when we came back, we realized we had covered half the city! The place she had directed to for lunch was closed so we went across the square and ate a nice panini at a small sandwich place with non-descript team playing a soccer match. Found a nice little bookshop further on called McRae, bought TimeOutFlorence and a book on Indian mythology called ‘Ka’. Kanna had mentioned it sometime back. All roads in Florence lead to the Duomo.
Day 6 13/9
Museums close Mondays in Italy but you can book, so we booked (Mariangela did) tickets to two museums for tomorrow. We were the only ones today. Break fast was decent, met her son, Filipo, who has finished doing art in London and is contemplating a beginning in NYC, told him London was better, which immensely pleased the mother as she thought NYC was too far.
Out exploring again. Went to Pone Vechchio where Ferragamo began his humbnle career stitching leather shoes. There are lots of little bridges across the Arne river. On the way back, after booking tickets to Milan at one of the ticketing machines (as we did in Rome, very convenient)at S.M.N, discovered a nice little pizzeria run by an elderly couple. Excellent pizza slices, very cheap. 8 euros for lunch for 2! Rested tired feet at La Stanza, went out Boldavino which was right next door for dinner. As usual, the food was good as was the service.
Day 7 - 14/9
Museum Day! First stop, Galleria. David. Great stuff. Before you reach David, there are 4 slave statues trapped in marble blocks. Apparently (according to Douglas, the Rome guide), Michelangelo used to go around feeling various marble blocks to “release” the statue within – an exercise that would sometimes take months! Once he was clear in his mind, he would then proceed to chisel out the statue. That was his mission, to release statues held captive in marble blocks by Nature. David is beyond description, simply stunning. How did he get so much details, right down to veins on David’s hands, just baffles one’s mind.
Lunch and off to Ufizzi. More Michelangelo and some da Vinci. (we extended our stay by two more days till Thursday, it was all full on Friday, so Mariangela had booked us at a 16th century convent, which is now a hotel near Academia). The average human system is not designed for a lot of museum-seeing in one day. Or even over many days. Overdose kicks in after 10 works of art sometimes. Once you’ve seen the masterpieces, the rest is just a daze-through. Personally, I found the theme of these artists quite limited. Everyone does Madonna and the child, Crucifixion, deposition … it keeps recurring, a bit numbingly, I must admit. It’s only the different ways in which the artists capture these images that make it interesting. Had dinner at Boccadama, another of the many Enoteca Ristorantes surrounding Santa Croce. It had started to rain by the time we finished wine and it was pouring down quite hard when we finished dinner. When it let up a bit, we ran across the piazza to the hotel – the benefit of dining near your hotel. PS: Like in Rome, Firenze too has drinking fountains in its piazzas. Very handy, saves you a euro or two.
Day 8 - 15/9
It had rained all night. The day was fresh and crisp. After breakfast, gave some agency names to Phillipo, Stopped over at Rivoire for a nice cup of espresso (apu had cappuccino) which we had standing at the bar as it’s less expensive than having it sitting down al fresco. And quite practical too, if you’re in a hurry.
Walked to the station. No plans yet, Siena or Pisa. INFO: You can’t change reservation details at the machine which issues tickets.
So queued up to change travel date to Milan to go on the 18th. But forgot to buy tickets to Pisa, though. Queued again, bought tickets, 1 class. But couldn’t find first class as all said II class. Had a decent ride though. Reached Pisa in an hour or so, walked to a Time Out restaurant but it was closed. They close on odd days here. So went to a pizzeria and had a cheap but filling slice of pizza. A half hour walk (maybe 15 mins) brought us to the Leaning Tower. It’s about 6 storeys tall with a “pent house” like structure. To me it looked like an over-sized tiffin box carrier, fixed at a tilted angle.
While other tourists took photographs of themselves pretending to push the tower back, guys were working actually to keep it from falling. There are a couple of nice domes in the same area.
Walked back (seemed shorter) shopped, took the train back (you’re supposed to pull the lever, not push the button next to the door, to o pen it).
Dinner at il Francesco, recommended by an English couple we met at breakfast, the guy was a man yoo fan. Great food, superb service. The waitress actually explained every dish on the menu, which was in Italian of course. House pour was five euros for a half litre carafe!
PS: For some reason, Pisa had more photocopying (fotocopy) shops than any other place we’ve seen so far.
Day 9 – 16/9
Breakfast. Bus station. Very friendly staff. Even though they didn’t speak English, they were very helpful. (The tour company type office next door that ran bus services to nearby places wasn’t all that friendly. And it was expensive too.) Took the 10.40 to Siena. Beautiful, scenic ride. It was pouring Italian dogs and cats when we reached. Took shelter at the bus stop for ten minutes. Started walking into town, ducked into the first shop that looked like it sold wind cheaters/jackets. Turned out to be a Bata shop. Bought a wind cheater and a pair of shoes that was quite reasonably priced. By the time we got out of the shop, the torrent had reduced to a drizzle. The town square, piazza, we went to next was beautiful. It was a huge square that sloped in to the centre with cafes and restaurants lining the fringe. Quick but not too good a lunch. Had coffee at a TimeOut café. Good stuff. Shopped for odds and ends, bought pasta, dried aglio olio that just had to be added to cooked pasta, cookies etc.,
Bus back to Florence. Had dinner at another nearby place – Osteria De Benci. Lovely stuff.
Day 10 - 17/9
After staying at Santa Croce area, we finally visited it this morning after checking out. It has Galileo’s tomb among a few others’, intricate work on the dome, stain glass paintings, impressive frescos. Good stuff. Had lunch at the friendly neighbourhood pizzeria run by the elderly couple.
Picked up the luggage, took a cab to Hotel Morandi, The cab driver was the first person we encountered in Italy who exclaimed Mamma Mia! It was over a woman driver. The hotel simply beautiful. It used to be a convent till the 16th century and it has been turned into a lovely, cosy little boutique hotel. Frescoes and oil paintings lined the walls. The staff were very friendly.
Strolled out, shopped for paper, wine etc., Had dinner at a wine shop owner’s restaurant who gave us his card and said to flash it for discount, which we did. Not bad.
Returned to the hotel, a place like this deserved to be spent time in. Each room had frescoes and paintings, even the little bar, where we went for a drink. The guy in charge, the night clerk, Maurizzo, was very generous with my Martell. For 6 euros it was almost a full glass. I even smoked a few cigarettes!
Day 11 – 18/99/
Maurizzo had promised breakfast at 11 euros for 2 (normally it’s for 1 person) last night. Decent breakfast. Tipped 5 euros.
To Santa Maria Novella station. Left for Milano. The train made an unscheduled stop at Parma, looked like another train had a breakdown and off loaded all its passengers onto ours. Soon they left, only to come back. The Japanese guy sitting next to us, totally unused to these kinds of interruptions in his home country, was completely puzzled and annoyed.” Why is this train delayed if another train broke down?” he was wondering.
Reached Milan an hour late. Long queue for taxi, but the queue moved fast. No hassles reaching the hotel. Taxi driver was just a city guy, no Florence charm or nice-ness here.
Went out after checking in, the street the hotel was on seemed a bit dodgy. There was a Bangladesh airline with Aishwarya Rai smiling from its wall. There was a Krishna alimentary, but it was closed all the time we were there. But the place was livelier when we returned after visiting the Duomo area. Most shops open after siesta, hence the deserted look when we started out.
The hotel guys couldn’t get us tickets to the Last Supper, even though I had called a few days earlier to check again. We were told to go to the tourist office near duomo and try. We booked for the city tour for tomorrow, which guarantees us a visit to the Last Supper.
The Duomo is impressive, about 15,20 minute walk from the hotel. The feel was a bit cold and distant, typical of a big city. It was even more apparent considering we were coming from Florence.
Came back by 8.30, had a cognac, dinner and went to sleep.
Day 12 – 19/9
Breakfast at hotel. Not too bad, the staff were looking hassled though. Walked to Duomo. Lunch at some non-descript place. We packed panini from the place we went to have coffee, and waited for the tour to start. It was an afternoon tour.
It began at 3 pm, at Duomo. Cathedrals are built along the design of a cross. The Duomo, was no exception, was begun in 1200s but was completed only in 1960. Went to another gallery. Last stop was Last Supper. It was incredible, we were standing in the very place where Da Vinci has stood centuries ago, painting one his many masterpieces. John looked like a woman, so the controversy sparked by Da Vinci code had something after all.
Had dinner at place near the Duomo, a bit expensive, but very nice stuff. The spaghetti pomodoro (served by an Inter Milan fan) was simple but lovely, like saaru anna with ghee my sister used to feed me when I was small.
Returned by 9/9.30.
Day 13 – 20/9
Shopped for more shoes, clothes and food stuff. Were back by 7.30. Had wine and pasta at the hotel restaurant. Thought of going to Switzerland, but shelved it as Schengen doesn’t cover it.
Day 14 – 21/9
Checked out by 10 am, after breakfast took taxi to Cordona station. Took the Malpensa Express (9euros each) to the airport. It was huge. The counter woman was friendly,told us where to get the tax thing done, did that, and boarded plane. Writing this somewhere over Europe/Asia. Still 5 hours plus to BKK. And 3 to 4 hours more to Singapore.
On the whole, it was a very nice trip. A word about Lonely Planet: avoid. They just scare people away from almost all destinations. To them every city is dangerous, every street corner requires you to be on guard. A case in point is Rome. They helpfully suggested that you need to blend in, walk confidently as if you know the place and look like a local. A tad difficult task when you have no clue where you are going, know nothing about the city and look 0% Italian ( at least we got mistaken for locals – happens everywhere, from Egypt to Spain and now Italy). But imagine you are Chinese or Japanese, just how the heck are you supposed to blend in? And we saw thousands of tourists with their camera hanging from around their necks, with their touristy attire complete with a confused expression half-hidden by the local street-map. Now, that’s blending in! Time Out, we found, was way better. Of course, don’t forget to do research on the Net. Ciao!
