ITALY THIRD TIME AROUND

ROME AGAIN
22/12/06
They say that you have to throw a coin with your back to the Trevi fountain to guarantee a revisit. Well, they lied. We threw the coin facing it two years ago and we still managed another visit to the Eternal City. Flew SQ this time, seemed the most reasonable of the lot, supplying another item to the Ripley’s ‘Believe it or not’ pages. (It was a 13 hour flight, direct, but didn’t feel like it).

Reached Fumicino at 6 am. The place has changed a lot from our last visit. After checking out, (the immigration guy suggested that we should come in summer when we told him we’ll be going to Sorrento), we took a shuttle to the baggage claim area, and we were out of the airport. Bought ticket at the counter for the Leonardo Express (11 euros), had coffee at the station café, and boarded an almost empty train to the Termini, which hadn’t changed much. It was cold. Came straight out (unlike the last time), took a taxi from the stand (there was no queue), to our hotel Gea Di Vulcano. The ride cost us 8 euros, when I pointed the meter reading which was 5 euros, the driver pointed to the luggage. I had forgotten that they charged for the baggage here.

Francesca, at the reception, checked us in. (Had to lug the bags up a flight of stairs though.) The room was by far the biggest we’ve had anywhere in Italy so far with a good sized toilet. Went to a restaurant next door for breakfast, then went walking around town. Past the ever-present Piaza Venezia (photo!), ambled onto a place mentioned in TimeOut for wine, then to Zozzone for pizza. Ended up at Tre Scalini for tartuffo,(the Bernini statue was under renovation), looked like the friendly people had left the place. Went back and turned in early, as it gets dark early in December.

23/12/06

Up early. After a decent breakfast, went to Termini to book tickets to Naples (from where you go to Sorrento), took the Metro to Laurentina for outlet shopping. The friendly people at the hotel couldn’t find out the details but we managed to find out from a tourist booth along the way. It was more like far-outlet shopping. After getting off at the last stop, asked for info at the counter, where we were directed to the Cotral bus stop across the road. We bought tickets, didn’t know which bus to take, went back to the station but they said they don’t know. So back to the bus station counter where they seemed to speak English. Managed to take the right bus, and find out that some woman on the bus was getting off at the same stop. At least that’s she said in Italian which we didn’t understand much. The bus dropped us off in the middle of nowhere (the bus stop that doesn’t exist even has a name on it!). We followed the kind woman who was walking too fast, across the highway, over some bushes, through the desert, past the Pyramids and then to Castel Romano (it’s just after Alexandria, take a left from the Nile).

The place was full of locals, there was not a single tourist except us. Which is a good sign, it means good deals. There may have been but we didn’t buy any, save for some chocolates at a Lindt shop. Since it started to drizzle we took a taxi (at the information office they can book you one) to Pomezzio, from where we took a bus to Laurentina. (The taxi driver told us there was a free shuttle bus to Piazza Republica but that was at 6 pm said the counter girl adding that it would be crowded.) After reaching the city, went to a closed TimeOut recommended place, came back to the hotel, where the night shift guy Agron, directed us to a place down Via Napoli (the side entrance road), which was not open yet for food but was for vino. Good food. Walked back to Gea and was talking to Agron while getting the key, when he mentioned they have rooms vacant for 3-5 Jan. Seemed like a good idea.

24/12/06

After breakfast, (gave two chocolates each to Francesca and another girl who gave extra cappucnio), cancelled our reservation at Rafaello which was charging more (about 140 euros), confirmed with out hotel for the 3rd and 4th Jan, went to Termini, waited in the lounge meant for Eurostar lounge for ‘Veloce’ treno. Took the train and reached Napoli in the afternoon. Followed the arrows to Circumvesuviana, where a helpful man at the counter told us how to get to Sorrento (the 12.11 not the one coming now but 12.11), bought tickets at the shop next to the booth, walked down to the station, and boarded the train.

It was a bit like the Regionale trains, or a local train. Got off at St.Agnello, took two wrong turns, called the guy at Il Rosetto who said to take the other road we haven’t, and walk down. In about ten minutes or more we reached the place. (Incidentally, the instructions on the Net say it’s a few steps away. Unless you are Yeti, it’s more than that.) Lovely little place with the room window opening onto a little orchard of orange and lemon trees and the mountains in the distance.

Went to the city centre which was about a ten-minute walk from the hotel. Beautiful place, typical hill station feel. Except this has views of Mt.Vesuvius, the sea and other hills. Found a place that was open for food, had good pizza and wine and a not so good cappuccino. Ours was the last order for they were closing for the holidays. The festive cheers of the waiter seemed to double as he went around telling everyone his wife left him. Went walking around for a while, came back to the Piazza Tasso, the main square. Sat at Bar Ercolana, and watched people and life walk by over Grappa and wine. Went back.

25/12/06

After saying Buon Natale! Merry Christmas! to people at breakfast (which was ok), went to Ercolano for coffee. Was greeted Italian style by the waiter who served us yesterday, hug, kiss on the right and left (no contact though). Decided to stick to Sorrento as we were not sure if anything would be open. Explored its winding gulleys and alleys and went plodding down to Marine Grande. One restaurant owner came out bleary eyed (Gattusso – Mermaid Today’s Special) to open. Sat out for a while sipping vino then went inside as the temperature dipped. The radio was playing Nights in White Satin Italian version. SMSd Bharath. Digested whatever we had on our walk back up to the hotel.

Went to P.Tasso in the evening, the town was showing signs of life. Sat at Bar Ercolano for some grappa, when a fat dog trundled in, wagged its tail at Apu, came around to my side, waited for me to pat its head, sat down for a while, waited for us to take a picture and as if on cue, went and followed some other guests to their table. The Italians like their dogs, they seem very gentle with animals.

Observation #2: A big man, with mustache and all, sipping a manly beer in the freezing weather, crossed his legs to reveal a pair of pink socks.

Went to Zintonio, bumped into a Bangla waiter and a right wing American lady. Was friendly with one and no so with the other. Not many people were there at the restaurant, hence no menu. So they prepared whatever we asked them to. Decent food.

26/12/06

POSITANO
Took SITA bus to Positano, supposedly the most beautiful place on earth. After a couple of customary wrong turns, took the road opposite Bar Internazionale and found an internet point to ask for directions. There was a friendly English guy who gave us directions. Followed his advice and overshot and found us at the other end of the island. Walked back, found ‘Centro Storico” or the centre , the place we mistook for a car park was the road to the Duomo and the beach. Had an aperole Spritz at a café there, some small pizzas, profiteroles and bought a bottle of Aperole. Walked down, picked up some ceramic souvenirs, went to the beach, the sand is black here.

Trudged our long way back to the bus stop, and waited two hours for the bus to Amalfi, it didn’t come, decided to take the one back to Sorrento, as it was 4.30 by then and it gets dark early, so it’s pointless going sightseeing. Back in Sorrento, discovered a decent place for dinner. The plump waiter (not the one we found the first day) at Bar Ercolano, tried to short change us with a bigger bill, when we pointed it out, was apologetic.

27/12/06

POMPEII
Took train to Pompeii Scavi station, bought tickets and an audio guide. Ruins. Ruins and remnants of a culture that existed, breathed, bought vegetables and meat, prayed, baked bread, engaged in commercial activities, planned streets and city life, dispensed justice, indulged in the oldest profession (there’s proof – the brothels called Lupariums or what’s left of them are still there),buried their dead, plaster-casted their earlier victims of Mt.Vesuvuis before themselves becoming targets for the mountain’s wrath.

They had sun dials, weights and measurements system, but no defence against volcanic ash. Amazing! Sometimes when we look back or see the remains of an earlier civilization, what strikes us most is that they were so much like us. We look for caveman like lifestyle but are awed and surprised that they had wheels and a superb system of governance among other things. We think just because we are here now with our computers and jetplanes, we are the only ones who can lay claim to “civilization”. I think that’s what we find hard to come to terms with, that there was intelligent life way before and they achieved fabulous, monumental things with not a tiny fraction of gadgets we have now. It’s almost how the developed world looks at the third world “ My God. They have radio, wait a minute that’s a satellite dish !”

While returning the audio guides, discovered that there was no bus to Mt.Vesuvius now. So we thought we’d go the church that had attained some fame through some miracle that happened there. Asked at the bookshop at the station, the guy pointed to the bus outside, from which a driver was just getting out, we paid him and got in. In ten minutes he came back, and took us to the church (no one else on the bus) and said to wait there for the return trip. Kids come and ask for money here but we are used to that back home, so no problem there. Went inside a really beautiful church, couldn’t take photographs as service was in progress. Hung around for a while and went back to the bus stop, and as we were looking at the bus timing chart, an elderly man (we had a lot of help from elderly gentlemen this trip), came from behind a minibus, asked us if we were going to the stations, and started the bus. Paid a euro each and got back.

Back to Sorrento. Dinner at a place recommended by an elderly from whom we bought ceramic stuff. We were talking about Italy and how it’s blessed with such beautiful places, and she said she used to go to Florence with her husband for thirty years till a couple of years ago when he passed away. She was wondering if she should go again with her family. We said she should as parents live in their children.

The waiter at the restaurant was from Punjab. Said he was studying in Rome and was here for winter break. Back in India we wouldn’t do that. We have no dignity of labour. No pride in our land or its history. No urge to save what we have for the future generations. Italy is apparently rife with corruption as well but the way they keep their past intact, the pride they have in their country is admirable.

28/12/06

Mt.Vesuvius and Naples
Got up early to catch the train to Ercolano station from where it’s easier to get to Mt.Vesuvius. The Lonely Planet (we couldn’t get TimeOut this time for any of the places we visited, so had to use the LP we bought long time back on W.Europe) as usual warned about illegal operators ripping people off and an elderly couple who hand out sticks for people climbing the mountain. We exited the station and went to what looked like an authentic tourist office, where the guy said it could cost us 16 euros each to climb the mountain, including a minibus ride to the top and back, and entrance fees. It made sense even though we were paying slightly more than we would if we went by regular bus service. Anyway these guys had a bus leaving in under ten minutes. And it did after a family joined us and a bunch of desis talking loudly in Telugu. A friend of mine told me about how obnoxious they get in the US, talking in their language loudly, earning every other desi a bad name. Seems they are studying in Germany, (I initiated the conversation because desis never smile at each other let alone talk), couple of them from Andhra, others from TN and Kerala.

The bus dropped us after a 10-15 minute ride. There are people living on the slopes of the volcanic mountain, defying it to spew its lava-ridden wrath. Tempting fate, if anything. An elderly man was handing out walking sticks to every climber, we declined, not wanting to pay any money later. The climb was manageable, the road winds around a fairly gentle incline, not very steep. There were people working along the sides, sitting in precarious positions, making the trip safe for people like us, God bless them. Along the ascent, you get fantastic views of the city below.

A 30 odd minute walk takes you to the crater. Walked around the rim, looked at the mouth that devoured thousands of lives years ago. Unbelievable! The crater itself is no bigger than a large room but the destruction it unleashed on the city so far below makes you wonder about the intensity of the eruption. Truly awesome, not the American teenager awesome, but in the real sense of the word.

Another 30 plus minute walk and we were back at the minibus stop (didn’t see anyone paying the old man so lonely planet is wrong again), which took us back to the station. From where we took the train onwards to Napoli. It’s hard to go to Naples without preconceived notions says the guide and it’s true. Most people we asked about said it was ‘pericolos’ meaning dangerous. The guy at the hotel said don’t wear jewellery and don’t carry bags. We had to carry a bag, so we did, Apu wasn’t wearing much jewellery so it was ok. The city has a definite energy. The streets were thronging with people, the air bursting with raw, chaotic energy. You can cross the road anywhere, drive as recklessly as you can, in fact I thought even I could rent a car and start driving (I can’t drive, if you know what I mean). So the traffic is pretty much like in Indian cities.

The main motivating factor for the visit was pizza of course. It was born here and there are a couple of places vying for the most authentic title. The first one mentioned in the guide was Da Michele had so many people outside its doors, we didn’t have a clue what was going on, whether there was a queue system, were there tickets issued, or did one just wait endlessly? No idea. After ten minutes we decided to seek out the next one on the list: Sorbillo. Walking through the alleys with houses on both sides connected by arches, we found Sorbillo. We also found more crowd. But we decided to wait it out as that’s what the crowd seemed to be doing. After an hour, we went in to the small place with just about four tables which explained the crowd outside and the long wait, and had three pizzas. Absolutely delicious.

Walked down a bit and found a café to have a nice espresso with peperencino (aphrodisiac, said the guy). Bought some chocolates there and on the way back found the Subterranean sign. Michael at the B&B told us about the subterranean (Sotterranea it’s called) Napoli. We went in time for the English tour to start. As we were talking to the lady there, she said they have an Indian working with them. Surprised, we were asking about him when he came unannounced and unprepared to meet fellow desis. Dinesh is from Kerala, he has been in Naples for 3 years. A trained electrical engineer he does whatever job he gets at the museum. He said he was lucky, unlike some of the other people who came with him, led by conmen agents, who still had no job and were living in cramped quarters. Happens in Singapore too, but the stick is more daunting than the lure of the carrot, so not many come illegally nowadays I think. Things people do for a living! When I asked him why he didn’t go back where at least he would have his family, he echoed Apu’s sentiment, that the family needs money just as much and he had lost a fair bit which he can’t recoup there.

The tour guide came around 7 pm and took us on a memorable journey back in time to when the Greeks came and built the underground city to how the Romans used it as an aqueduct to the WWII days when it served as a bomb shelter. At one time the city used it as a garbage dump. Fortunately it was all cleaned up and now part of the underground city is open to the public. After checking if any of us is claustrophobic, he took us through the tunnels, some of which you could walk through only sideways, and explained this is how ancient Romans cleaned the aqueducts. Of course they didn’t walk on the ground, they walked using the footholds carved into the sides of the walls, with a candle. As did we, in an effort to mimic their experience.

Met Dinesh on the way back as he asked us to and had a chat, he was explaining why he had to come. He even offered to put us up at his lodgings. Good man. Of course like any decent desi, he said he wished he could feed us something now that we had come to his place. We said it was quite all right and left him.

Came back with bags and us intact. Arohara!





29/12/06

Capri
Up earlyish. Took the winding path down from P.Tasso to reach the ferry point. A hydrofoil was leaving in five minutes. We bought tickets and boarded the large ferry with a fair amount of Oriental tourists. It takes about 30 minutes to reach the island of Capri. Once we were there, we found there was a smaller ferry leaving for the famed Grotto Azuro or the Blue Grotto. Quickly picked up tickets at the booth, and got in. The water is an incredible Royal blue Black ink colour, the sea is almost like black velvet, undulating sheet.

We reached the Blue Grotto entrance, and admired the houses etched into to the sides of the mountains rising from the sea, while waiting for the previous load of tourists to finish. Then it was our turn. Another smaller boat with an oarsman, came to pick us up, we were the first to get in as we were not in a group. The small boat takes about 4-6 people. The oarsman/guide, in decent English, told us to sit down with legs to one side (you don’t squat or stand), and said if we were happy with his services we can give him a token of a euro.

Bobbing up and down, we purchased one more pair of tickets from another boat where two guys were bobbing up and down and issuing tickets. Then it was off into the Grotto, (the oarsman enters the cave and hauls himself (and the passengers) in holding on to a cable type thing outside the cave). The rest defies description, even photographic ones. It was just absolutely beautifully. There’s some physics at function here, the sunlight that enters the cave gets refracted by the water inside and is thrown up to your retina, producing the marvellous blue effect. It’s an ethereal, luminous, pale beautiful blue, you’ve got to see it. We went around the cave for 5 minutes, the walls echoing with the loud songs of the oarsmen, the gasps of the tourists and the popping of flashbulbs. Came out, gave a euro for each of us and got back into the ferry (one at a time warned the friendly oarsman), waited for the rest of the boatload to finish their tour. We noticed our small boat guy was the best of the lot as the others hurried passengers, didn’t tell them how to sit, and demanded money.

Came back ashore and, after a quick café and a sandwich (caprese, of course), bought tickets for the cable car to go up to the island. It’s more like a cable train with 4 carrriages. The information office at the docks had told us not to miss the Giardini, so we went to the Gardens which offer mesmerizing views of the sea. We went walking around the small town before and after that, Apu bought shoes from a friendly Sarah J Parker look alike girl at a shop (who said she would phone her other shop and see if they have the size we wanted and keep it, and if it fits we can pick it up at 4 pm).

We took a small bus to Anacapri, about a ten minute ride away. After a quick look at a church, went to Il Saraceno (recommended by the guide book), for a good meal served with big smiles. Strangely there are cactus plants all over the place, so thinking they were a little out of place called Encyclopedia Bharat who said they grow wherever there’s rock and moisture and sunlight. Satisfied, finished the meal, asked for directions to the bus stop, and immediately got lost. An elderly gentleman out for his early walk, took us all the way to the bus stop. Don’t know which other bus ride between town offers stunning views of the sea and mountains but this one does.

Went back, picked up shoes, spent some time at the main square where some show was happening. Met a couple of desi boys taking pictures. Turns out one is from Madurai and the other from Bangalore. I took a picture of them and they returned the favour.

Took the cable train back, and after a 10-15 minute wait, took the hydrofoil back. The walk back up the steps to P.Tasso knocked the wind out almost. Met Vicky from Punjab working in Sorrento, chatted as much as anyone who has climbed all those steps could, and went to Bar Ercolano. Some concert was about to start, so went back, bought water at the usual place, had some drinks at Jenny’s Bar (we kept seeing it every day on our way to and from the square, so we thought we should try it at least once), where we were the only patrons. The friendly guys put up a gas stove on a pole which works as a heater. Some of their mates came, are hollered from their vehicles, one of them said the Italian equivalent of ‘how you doing?’, and after a while we left. The concert sure was going to be packed as we saw a huge line of vehicles waiting to go in that direction.

30/12/06

Sorrento – Taormina
Checked out after breakfast, as we wanted to take the early train out to Naples,from where we can go to Taormina. At Sorrento Circumvesuviana station, the ticket machine swallowed Apu’s ticket. Tried to explain it to the elderly man at the counter, he tried to explain something which I didn’t understand, finally he came out, extricated the ticket, and told us to go through the bigger turnstile as we had luggage but that didn’t have a validating machine, another staff said we could get it done on the train. But there was no conductor. We just hoped no one would check at the Napoli station as we had seen them do a couple of days ago. Unvalidated tickets cost you a hefty fine in Italy. Luckily, there was no one to check.

At the Napoli Centrale, found the same girl who issued us tickets at the counter, she said she didn’t know which platform we should go and that we should look at the board, and that there were no first class seats available today on out train. We, luckily again, had got the last two seats when we came and booked a couple of days ago, when we visited Naples.

Used to Eurostar style and not sure of what this IC (InterCity) train was like, we were waiting beneath the departure board when an elderly man who looked like a railway staff (he had anm on his shirt), approached us and asked us if we were going to Roma. We said no, then he asked us if we were going to Firenze, to which we said no, wondering why he wanted to know. You see, with all you read about Naples in guide books, you just don’t know who to trust (besides he wanted to see our ticket). Even noble intentions get distorted through the veil of perceptions you put on with the stuff you read in guide books. Then he asked where we were headed, we said Taormina. And he started rattling off in Italian and we guessed that he was trying to tell us the Taormina bound train doesn’t leave from there and that we have to go to another stazione Piazza Garibaldi. He guided us to the top of the staircase that led to the other station and was going to take us there, but genuinely we had to grab something to eat, so we told him we need to eat and thanked him for his help. If that wasn’t Divine intervention, we don’t know what is. He was chatting with someone, saw us and came and helped us for no reason! Amazing! Arohara! We double checked it at the information counter and had a bite to eat, had coffee. A lady asked money for the bambino, we said no and later saw her smoking. That’s what the money is for then.

Waited a while as we reached early. We asked a couple about the train and they said IC is ok, nothing to worry about, they were not sure where carozza 3 would come. Hoping the train would stop longer than Eurostar did at Venice, we made a dash for our coach when the train came to the other end of the platform. Lugged our bags in and luckily the seats were near the entrance. The cabin had 6 seats with a narrow walkway which also had foldable single seats at regular intervals. Only one man was there, As the train left, on time, we were treated to superb views of the sea! It runs along the coast offering fantastic views of the Tyrrhenian sea. Later we were joined by a lady and two noisy kids who luckily got off after 2 hours.

At Villa San Giovanni, the whole train (we had heard and read about it but had to experience it ourselves), goes into a ferry and gets carried across the straits to Messina! The locals were not all that surprised, they said it was like taking your car only this is a train. The train goes into a hold in the ferry’s bottom, and you can step out and go to the deck till it reaches the other side or sit inside the train, inside the moving ferry, and live the Galilean relativity experience. Are you moving if you are not moving? It is soon answered when the train rolls out of the ferry and is back on terra firma again after a 15 minute ride.

We reached Taormina (in the meantime got to know the other passenger in the cabin) at 8.15, , the station is quite pretty with paintings on the ceiling and a fairly brusque elderly man at the counter who said, ‘No English’ when I asked him about trains to Rome. Outside, the taxi we’d asked the hotel yesterday to book wasn’t there to pick us up. After calling the hotel (Pensione Svizzera) a couple of times and learning that they couldn’t contact the driver, we took a taxi from the rank outside the station. The hotel people said it was safe and that they normally charge 15 euros. Which was exactly how much Giovanni charged as he handed his card in case we wanted his services later. (It was a black Mercedes taxi without a taxi sign on top.) Lugged the bags down a flight of stairs to the reception area, where while checking in, we learnt that the pick-up driver had gone to the airport looking for us! Lugged bags again, 4 breathless flights of stairs this time, but the view from the balcony of the sea and the mountains was worth it. Room 22. Went to a hotel recommended place called Tiramisu round the corner for dinner. Good food.

31/12/06

Taormina
After a decent breakfast, asked the reception to book a place at a nice restaurant to celebrate the new year (an elederly lady who earlier speaking German at the breakfast hall was telling the girl at the reception about the possibilities we have), explored Taormina, possibly the most picturesque and beautiful town so far.

You go through the arch and walk around its cobble-stoned alley with shops selling antiques, souvenirs, pastries, film rolls, and other assorted stuff on either side and you reach what the guide calls the obscenely beautiful piazza Aprile It is. The square offers fantastic views of the sea, the snow-capped Etna (no trips now as there it was too cold plus there was some lava-related issue as well), and the distant mountains.

We sat at one of the tables of Café Wunderbar which offers exhilarating views at slightly exorbitant prices. But it was worth it. The Fuji picked the most appropriate moment in the most beautiful place to inform us that the card was full. Went to a camera shop where they said they don’t have memory card for it as it’s an old model. Old? We just bought it 4 years ago! Went to one of the ‘Download photos to a disc for 5 euros’ places, did that, cleared the card, found out where to get the best cannola and headed for Niko bar. It was good.

Went back to the hotel, where we found a rolled-up note in the key cabinet informing us that a table has been booked at Ristorante L’orologio, near the piazza. We were sitting down and sipping a Grappa when the elderly lady who was offering suggestions earlier, stopped by and started talking to us. After telling her how we think Italy is the most beautiful country in Europe as no others seem to have been blessed like the shoe-shaped country has with natural beauty, good food, good wine and lovely people, and that not much is there to see in Germany, we realized she was from Fatherland but shared our view. Had studied chemistry she said when I told her what I did in college. She was recommending a few places outside to go to. After thanking her and another Grappa, went to the restaurant by 9. The square was teeming with people. Bright lights, the people and the moon all, to quote Sting.

The restaurant served mainly fish for the 7 course dinner assured the hotel people. Being on holiday and emboldened by the previous Grappas, I was ready as I reached for the sparkling wine that was on the house as a starter to the champagne that was waiting in the ice bucket. All guests were handed masks, and party hats and pipes to make ludicrous noise. Then came the oysters! I’ve never tried and was not about to say no considering we’d paid 80 euros a head. So I had everything from oysters to smoked salmon, something baked, to lobster and ended with a steak. Then there were fireworks and more champagne. When we left it was 12.30. Walked back shouting Buon Anno back to cheerful citizens.

1/1/07

Taormina
Buon Anno! Went to the bus station about 3 minutes away to go to Messina. Not many buses at the stazione. Just as we wondering how odd that was, the German lady (Marga, who visits Taormina often), was there to post some cards. She saw us, walked over and told us there won’t be any buses today when she learnt of our plans. There is bus service on threee days a year, she informed us, on New Year’s day, Easter and Xmas. She offered then offered to show us the way to the Giardini Naxos station, where we can find out if the trains are working. Along the way she showed us a photopoint and took a photo of us. Further along just before the road road turns downwards, she pointed to holes in the wall which were in anorderly fashion and said the Arabs used to bury their dead there. Then she pointed to caper vines and said che aa che o three, Calcium carbonate,I answered. Apparently they wherever there’s calcium carbonate and moisture. Thanking her profusely (otherwise we’d have spent another hour), we began the long walk down.

After an hour we reached the station, where the same grumpy guy was there from two days ago, only he was grumpier to be working on a public holiday when even buses didn’t ply. We discovered to our shock that all trains to Rome on the 3rd were completo! There were two postis (seats) today then realized it was not the end of the world, stopped panicking, cancelled it, and called for a taxi back to the hotel. The day clerk is quite useless and unresourceful, like asking us if we have the number for the train station etc., Asked her to look for trains on the net and block seats on the plane.

Walked around the town some more. Went to a nice little café called 60/67 which we saw yesterday. A pretty lady came rattled out a lot of stuff in Italian about the menu, and continued to rattle on after we informed her we parlo non italiano. The lady next to us kindly translated what she meant. The gist is the wine is good and the food is vegetarian ( I’d had enough of non veg for a long time to come). It was indeed. The grilled vegetables tasted like a Porta Porta dish. Their young son came out with a remote controlled Ferrari, which soon changed hands to the grandfather and then the dad. After the food, we asked them where to get the best cassata (always ask the locals), and the guy said Minatauro, round the corner. Took the wrong t urn (again), but went to the Minatauro that sold wines etc, they pointed us to their dolci outlet near the taxi stand. Went there, had a sickeningly sweet but delicious casatta, bought some other dolci items.

Walked down further and wound up at the Teatro Greco, built in 3 BC. The horseshoe theater overlook the sea and hence offers stunning views of the sea from one side and of distant towns and mountains from another. The theatre brought out a lot of histrionics from a few of the visitors though. Picked up an Il Padre tee shirt (if not in Sicily, where else?) from a shop that was closing.

Went to Maffei’s restaurant a good one according to Lonely planet but needs reservation. We were just passing by when the door opened and we asked if that was Maffei as there was another restaurant next to it, he said it was, we asked if there was table for two, he said , and in we went (actually took my coat, one of those places never been to before). Opted for vegetarian fare even though they specialise in fish. Returned to hotel after picking up some souvenirs. They sell handmade faces of Mafioso, Judicio etc, well-crafted stuff.

Woke up to an annoying, persistent noise which turned to be the fire alarm. Opened the door and saw some people going down. We took our passports, money, (and Skanda kavacam) to go down when I saw people coming back saying it was a false alarm. Not many people took it seriously I think, I saw my neighbour waiting for his wife comeback with the news!

2/1/07

Catania & Messina
Buses were back on the road today. Went to Catania which takes about an hour and a half. The town looks like a mix between Florence, Milan and Rome. Beautiful, old buildings, a neat grid system. A passing woman told us that was the main street as if reading our mind. Wailing police cars weaved their way against the morning traffic, with the guy inside waving his hand from the window to indicate it was urgent perhaps. Asked a police woman where the Duomo was and followed her directions and reached a piazza which had a circular café stand with brass coffee machines. Bought two coffees and spilt them immediately as the sleeves of my jacket got in the way. Bought two more (Attenzione, advised the young shop keeper boy).

Walked on to the Duomo side after asking a few more people for directions. Very impressive architecture all along the way to Piazza Duomo, which is a UNESCO heritage site apparently. The Fontanelle dell Elefante is made of lava and lime stone, dates back to Roman time. Has an obelisk on top. The meat and vegetable market that inspired Reno Gatusso’s painting, was next to the café where we grabbed a bite but it was around noon so we thought we’d give it a miss.

Walked back to the autobus stazione and caught a bus to Messina that wasleaving in 5 minutes. After everyone was onboard, everyone got off after hearing a loud noise and smelling something burning. Turned out the engine had blown. ‘Nothing works in this country’, muttered a disgruntled passenger as we got off. The next bus came in ten minutes. It started raining in huge sheets as we reached Messina but stopped just as we alighted. Bought return tickets, went to an information office where we met a friendly man who told us where we can go in the time we had.

Messina is an ancient port town, dating back to Greco Roman times. We went around, walked along the harbour where the term Scylla and Charybdis comes from, as the currents there make swimming unadvisable. Went to a café at Piazza Cairoli, had canola and coffee and headed back to the bus station. The bus wasn’t there, and the guy at the counter said the six o clock bus will be in later or something. From what the people going in the same direction, we gathered it won’t go to the bus stop at Taormina but to the Funvia or the cable car station which was next to our hotel. But this won’t go up! A mid-fortyish lady said she was heading the same way, so follow her. We did just that and she asked if anyone on the bus spoke English to help us. When the driver came he was trying to tell us the same thing about Funvia. Then a French gentleman sitting in front told us he’d let us know when the stop came. As we reached Taormina, he was saying the place may not be open, and the bus may stop elsewhere further, at least that’s what we thought. Then we figured he was trying to tell us if the cable car services is closed the bus will go further. The lady got off, and then came our stop. We knew it was our stop because the French guy was shouting, ‘Yes, light! Light!, meaning the Funvia was open. We thanked them all profusely for their kindness and helpful attitude. Wonderful people! Everyone on the bus wanted to make sure we got off at the right place! Took the cable car back, still basking in the kindness of the strangers. Amazing, really.

3/1/07

Back to Rome
Took the early Aeroporto bus to Catania airport, the ride takes 40 minutes or so and costs 9 euros. Luckily we asked at the counter if we could carry wine in the handbag. The answer is no. Worse, she said we couldn’t carry it in the check-in baggage either! We told her the wines very expensive and that we don’t get them in Singapore and that we are not going to leave it behind. NOPE. We told her we’ll pack it properly when she said it might be a danger to other passenger’s luggage as if luggage pieces were ghoing to have a party in the hold and create a ruckus. Went out, packed the wine bottles in the check in luggage, had them plastic wrapped, and checked in.

After a quick coffee and panini at the café, joined the chaotic bunch of passengers to get in. There was no system, no queue, it was one big knot moving slowly. Someone yelled at the staff to expedite as some of us had the 12 o clock flight to catch and it was already past 11.30. Suddenly, a ‘gate’ was opened and we went through, finished the formalities when the boarding was announced. 90 minutes, an orange juice and a biscuit packet later, we were in Rome, where we waited 45 minutes for the baggage to arrive. Incredible! Spent some more time figuring out where the Leonordo terminal was, as there were no clear signs. 40 minutes later, were at the Termini. A cheerful cabby took us to the Gea and charged only 5 euros. Agron welcomed us with a big smile and a bigger room.

Stepped out to Piazza Spagna, walked back in time as we saw the familiar Palio hotel, Del Corso and the Camper store, where we picked up some nice pairs of shoes. Went to Il Marguta, the vegetarian restaurant which we had liked onour last trip, but they were not open.Made a reservation for later, and walked to the same place where we had our first pizza the last time we came to Rome, at Canova. Had a Grappa this time though. Walked back to Il Marguta where we served by the same waiter who served us in 2004. Sated, walked back and reached hotel by 10.30.


4/1/07

Rome
Today was supposed to be spent in Florence. But when we went to the Termini to buy tickets, changed our mind as it didn’t make sense to spend all that money just to have coffee there. Went to Trevi and threw the coin with our back to it, just to be on the right side of the legend. Went to Palazzo Berberini instead. It’s a lovely museum close to the hotel. Of course the whole city is a museum. Just on the way to the P.Spagna, at a street corner, there are 4 intricate statues carved into the sides of the columns. It’s just there to be admired as you wait for the light to turn green. Walked up the Bernini staircase and down the one designed by Borromi. It has some lovely paintings, this museum. Lunch at a café specializing in ice-creams and flavoured chocolate drinks opposite Rinascente. Walked around, had coffee at Newscafe with a must-check-out toilet but that was closed for repair.

Walked around shopping for assorted stuff, found a shop that sold little trinkets with a copper theme as the woman running it likes copper (Luissella Mariotti on Via de Gesu). Had dinner at a place called la buvette, nice food. A faint drizzle made us buy a 5 euro umbrella from a Bangladeshi guy. For some reason, the Linea A was not working on both days, today and yesterday. Fail to understand how a platform can be closed! Back by 10 plus, packed and hit the bed.

5/1/07

Rome-Singapore
Up early, after a quick breakfast (didn’t see Francesca both days), paid the bill and checked out. Taxi to Termini, Leonardo express to Fumicino (you can buy tickets at the Termini where an office with a sign that says bigliette, Leonardo express etc). Reached the airport on time but spent a fair amount of time collecting the VAT. First, you check in your baggage, then you go to the place where they give you clearance, with your checked-in baggage, then you go back and check them in again, then clear immigration, then stand in another queue to get cash. If you are carrying VAT goods in your hand bag, then it you can just check your bag, and proceed to get the VAT. In the end, we just had enough time to buy a Grappa and start boarding. Rome airport is even bigger than Malpensa, Milan. It’s huge! So go there well in advance.


6/1/07
Reached home, everything intact, by Divine Grace.

Venice - A bridge too many.

8/9/05
Thursday

A 12-hour journey with a three hour stop-over plus another two hour flight in addition to an hour long waterbus ride begins with a single step, as the saying goes.

Flew KLM. The counter staff seemed helpful and friendly. Once aboard, we noticed the unusual division of the regular 3-4-3 structure (it was a Boeing 747-300). This one was a 3-2- a wall- and perhaps 2-3 on the other side, which we didn’t get to see, on account of it being a night flight and us being sleepy.

But whatever stage of uncomfortable slumber we were in, we were rudely awakened by the assault on our olfactory system in the form of supper or dinner. NEVER ASK FOR ASIAN VEGETARIAN. Actually we had requested Indian vegetarian but they always give Asian variety. It’s horrible, am sure seat covers provided a better source of protein and minerals than the stuff that was dished out. Thankfully, mine went missing. Makes you wonder what kind of starving maniac would have done that. Either he or she was too hungry or had had taste-buds removed, owing to too much airline food. Or maybe someone who had had too many Asian vegetarian and couldn’t suffer another one was going about destroying it quietly, sitting inside the trolley. Whatever the case, I got a vegetarian meal from the business class. Wasn’t quite as bad. Curiously, even that was in a paper tray. Breakfast was bearable.

A 3-hour stop-over at Amsterdam. Familiar electronic woman-voice going ‘Mind your step’ at the end of walkalators. PA system routinely telling passengers who are late that they are delaying the flight and threatened to off-load their luggage. The 3 hours got extended to half hour more after boarding. Technical difficulty and heavy air traffic at Schipol.

9/9/05
Friday

Reached Venice, Marco Polo Airport sometime in the morning. The bags were wet from the rain. Picked up baggage, located the Ali Laguna booth, bought a waterbus ticket to Arsenale vaporetti stop for 10 euros each. Perish the thought about private taxis, they apparently are very expensive, about 85 euros.

We went out of the airport, turned right and found the stop for the free shuttle as the girl at the counter said we would. In 10 minutes the shuttle came and took us to the waterbus station, just in time for the Venetian skies to open up and pelt down furiously. After waiting an hour on the platform that was getting more and more unsteady from the sea that was getting increasingly choppy, we took the red line (the other is blue line) to Arsenale. By then the rain reduced to a trickle and stopped completely when we got off at our stop.

Walked right (a helpful suggestion from someone who had stayed at the B&B before), climbed up and down a flight of steps and we were at La Perla Di Venezia. It’s in between two doors, next to Il Pinguino geletaria. No big name boards, there’s a name card stuck next to the bell panel. We pressed that and the door opened (We’ had stumbled on to this B&B on the Net and it was highly recommended by everyone who had stayed here).

Mario, the care-taker, greeted us warmly and showed us how to use the three keys to get in for the next seven nights, and declared immediately we won’t get any breakfast tomorrow if we don’t start speaking Italian by then.
The suite was nice and cosy with a sizeable bathroom and a shower stall that was a bit too small. It had a vertical ‘Jacuzzi’ though.

The first thing that strikes you about Venice besides its beauty is the lack of pollution from automobile exhaust. No blaring horns, no unruly drivers, no rash driving, no traffic jam. There’s a very simple explanation for this. There are no automobiles in Venice because there are no roads in Venice. You only have waterbuses and walkways with countless bridges for people to wheeze up and puff down. Which teaches you a very valuable lesson: never bring more than necessary when coming here. Always pack light. Always. Lugging your heavy suitcase up and down these bridges is not funny (since when is hard work funny anyway?) neither is dragging it in and out of the waterbuses. Don’t say you’ve not been warned.

Mario recommended a couple of restaurants and gave us a map and circled a couple of places like San Marco and Rialto bridge. (He took an immediate liking to Apu.)

Strolled out to a beautiful Venetian evening. To the left was via Garibaldi, a fairly wide avenue with houses featuring varied facades of stunning bright colours on either side. Almost all of them have a potted plant on their wrought iron-grilled balcony. Among them were local grocers and restaurants. There were benches placed back to back along the middle of the road, with children doing somersaults, chasing dogs, families meeting each other on their evening stroll. Lovely.

After waiting for the Osteria Garanghelo to open at 6 from 5.50, we sat outside. I had a spritz, a local aperitif that’s a concoction of white wine, soda and aperole which is also a local liqueur. The other bitter version is made with Campari instead of Aperol.

Apu ordered a half a carafe of red. Just then I saw Mario standing behind her, signaling me to be quiet. Instead of going ‘Boo’, he said a mild ‘ Ciao’, which startled her anyway. He spoke to Marco, one of the waiters and a minute later, he brought us two glasses of good red wine, courtesy Mario.

He joined us at our insistence for a ‘piccolo’, doctor’s orders till his ankle became all right, he informed us. Just when we were wondering how kind this stranger was, he ducked into a nearby store and came out with a present for Apu. Turned out to be a teddy bear key chain. Now we understood why the previous guests at his place were raving so much about him being the best host.

Had a lovely dinner, walked back, had an ice cream, and returned to hotel. The B&B is about a few feet from the sea and offers a beautiful of the wide blue expanse. A huge cruise liner passed by the window.

10/9/05
Saturday

Awoke fresh, had time for kriya and meditation. Had breakfast, with the ‘learn Italian’ deadline being pushed to tomorrow. It was a simple sweet croissant (with the most delicious butter ever) and cappuccino (or whatever you prefer) fare. We noticed an even bigger ship than the one we saw yesterday pass by, making us wonder just how deep the water 10 feet away was.

Headed down to San Marco, which was about a 5-minute walk. Unbelievable, not just the place, but the number of camera toting fellow gawkers gathered there. We were sure it has more tourists per square inch than any other place we’ve been to so far. Locals must be going insane dealing with the crowds thronging their city on their way to work. With over 7 million visitors every year, they must be outnumbered 100 to 1 on any given day, except perhaps in winter, when it is likely to be 100 to 20 is my guess.

Doge’s palace was on the side, gave it a miss. Didn’t want to do Patel points this time. Walked on to Rialto bridge, at one point this was the only connection between Venice and the rest of the islands, it seems. More tourists taking pictures. We did too, seeing as we were not locals. Yet. With its numerous calles, fondamentas and gulleys, Venice is designed to ensure you get lost. In fact that’s what the guidebook recommends. Get a good map and get lost. Don’t worry, Venice is a safe city. The very calles and gulleys make it hard for thieves to make a quick getaway it seems. Besides, helpful signs are plentiful and no matter where you are, you can follow the signs and reach San Marco or Rialto. And with thousands of tourists milling about at all times, well, there’s safety in numbers, especially when there’s 7 million involved, one would imagine.

Another curious feature of the city is the wailing children. Kids just don’t seem to like the place. We saw more cranky, crying kids here than anywhere else.

Went on to the tourist office which was located near Piazza le Roma. We actually crossed a road busy with traffic and other modern annoyances. Picked up a guidebook and a map for 2 euros. Quite friendly staff. You can buy bus tickets and waterbus tickets and concert tickets here if you want to.
Had two slices of tasty pizzas at Café 2000, a small pizzeria. Stopped for a cappuccino at café del doge. Nice.

Went to a TimeOut place for dinner. Very disappointing. Normally Time Out is good but, well, no one is perfect. Alla Rivetta was the name of the place. Sat next to an American couple from Jersey who’ve never been to SF. He was complaining how people are always rude to him. The service was very brusque and rushed, the food was just ok. Left one euro tip out of courtesy.

11/9/05
Sunday

Got up a bit late, and after the usual breakfast, went to Dorsudoro siestre. Venice is divided into six sections or siestres. Just followed the road signs, past San Marco, past Ponte alla Academia and we were there. There was an English speaking local girl in 18th century costume with a colleague selling tickets to Vivaldi’s Quattro Stagioni opera where the actors will be in baroque costume. (I thought it was a pizza combination till I realized it was the four stages or four seasons.) Vivaldi was a son of the soil, or water as the case maybe.

Almost bought tickets but said we’d come back if we changed our mind. Good move, in hindsight, as we were too tired when we came back. On our way to another TimeOut place in Campo Margherita, stumbled onto a place that sold water cheap, which turned out to be the place for ice creams in Venice, called gelataria lo squaro. Absolutely delicious stuff with good, generous scoops.

[Here’s a tip. It’s something we’ve learned over our few trips to Europe. As a rule, places where you can find water cheap, say one euro for a litre or a litre and a half, is usually a safer bet to buy other stuff. If it’s double or more expensive, then you know you’ve arrived smack in the centre of a tourist attraction. It worked in Spain, in other parts of Italy, and now here.]

Went to Campo Margherita, sat in the square with the locals, sipped Spritz after Spritz (tried the campari version too, it was bitter as expected) and watched people while away their Sundays reading newspaper, playing with dogs, assuaging wailing kids (not just restricted tourists, this phenomenon).

Since they served an all meat menu, that too only sandwiches, we asked the waitress for a place to eat. She recommended a place next door. We shifted two feet, and had two large and lovely pizzas to reward our hard work. Picked up a phrasebook on the way back, didn’t turn out to be a very useful one though. Skipped dinner, as the pizza was still being digested despite the 2-hour walk back.

12/9/05
Monday

Started the day the way the locals apparently do, with a grappa. Seems it keeps the chill off. Apu had a Cinzano, finding grappa too strong (40% alcohol). Took the first local boat ride to Murano island, famous for its glass. It lies about 40 minutes from Venice, the ticket is 3.50 euros one way. It’s a small island filled mostly with shops selling glassware and of course factories that make glass. Visited one such, which was right opposite the ferry stop where we got off, for a glass blowing demo. Very interesting. Amazing what a blob of silica can become in the right pairs of hands. Left a 2 euro tip in the glass bowl placed for just that purpose. Bought a few glass trinkets for home.

An ok lunch at a TimeOut place. Returned to mainland, and back to Dorsudoro, and back to geletaria lo squero, had a fantastic pistachio ice cream. Went looking for an elusive terracotta pendant. Apu insisted to the shop owner that she saw it in the window a day before. The guy, knowing what he keeps in his shop, said it was impossible. But her insistence planted a seed of doubt in his mind which he cleared the only way a married man would: he called his wife who assured him he wasn’t lax and that he knew what he was selling and that they didn’t have the said pendant.

Despair led to a delicious chocolate mousse at a place called Gobetti. It was too early for dinner so we chilled off with a couple of Spritzes at an outdoor place round the corner from our dinner place. Sought out the waiter who served us and gave him a euro for his efforts (as his shift was over and had disappeared by the time I could fish out the change), ‘You are very kind sir’, he said. Probably a student, and like Grodin character says to Nero character in Midnight Run, these people depend on tips.

Had dinner at Al Bacareto , I had filing plate of delicious risotto. Chatted with a lone guy next table who said he was from SFO. It seems he was on a biking holiday, had gone to Vienna and cycled to Venice.

PS: The crowd had thinned a bit today, probably the weekend visitors left.

13/9/05
Tuesday

Sticking to coffee and denying Marios grappa, took vaperetto 42 to Ferrovia, bought tickets at 2.50 euros each, also booked our Florence tickets on the ticket machine. Took the 11.30 train (which looked a bit too comfortable for a 2.50 euro ride but the return train wasn’t, so it evened out. Which is not to say the return train wasn’t comfortable, it just wasn’t air-conditioned) to Padua (or Padova as the locals call it), which happens to be home to Italy’s second oldest university. After a half hour ride, reached the place which had traffic, automobiles and other contrasts with Venice. Walked about, and reached a couple of campos/squares soon. Even went to the university. Had lunch at PePin, the food was excellent, the service wasn’t.

A very disappointing place. For a university town it has no charm like Stanford or Berkeley. Wishing we had given it a miss instead wasting almost 3/4 of a day, we went back by 4. Sitting on the steps of the Santa Lucia station, we decided to go back to hotel via Canneregio, another sestieri. It was refreshingly bustling, lively and nice. An enjoyable contrast to the dry Padua. Made a mental note of all the places we wanted to visit tomorrow. The locals shop here which means you don’t pay the price for being a tourist. Bought a 1.5L water for 85 cents!

Went back to Garanghelo for dinner. A tourist was photographing an elderly lady standing in her balcony and talking to her friends on the street below. She seemed paparazzi-friendly, so to speak, perhaps the most photographed aunty. We found the whole spectacle warm and nice, people from balconies talking to each other, and to those on the street, families greeting each other as they went about their evening walks, but Manuela, the waitress, said all is nice when you’re on holiday. She is from Napoli, and when the other waiter said something about Naples, I sprang to her defence saying they had Maradona, which led her to give me a hug, Neapolitans and Diego are inseparable.


14/9/005
Wednesday

Woke up late, had breakfast late. The rest of the six suites seemed occupied.

Wove our way through the usual throng of tourists at San Marco, taking the same route we did on our first day, this time more confident and in search of the pendant. A different turn to the right brought us to the wet market and the meat market. Another curious thing about Venetians is their cuisine, which includes as an unusual specialty: horse. Talk about horsedoeuvres.

Walked on to Rialto and on the way, bought big Spanish olives from a local grocer who was selling meat and cheese. A few minutes further we found the elusive pendant sitting in the window of a shop run by Ferretti sisters. It had a lot of interesting stuff, they design and make most of it. That goes for almost all the shops here, the owners either design or make what they sell. Stopped for a Spritz before that where a tourist couple asked us for directions to P. le Roma, mistaking us for locals (actually they asked for Roma).

Walked further on and went into the San Giovanni church (we’d taken a photo outside on the first day). Very peaceful place, never seen a quieter church. Saw paintings of a Serbian painter called Zec, who lived in the Tuscan region and Venice, beautiful stuff. Donated 2 euros, and bought a painting, and the girl sitting and “woman-ing” the place didn’t have anything to wrap it with.

Crossed over to Cannaregio side. Some of the shops were closed for siesta. So whiled away our time looking at the crowd filing past us, sitting on the steps of the campo which had a church, and having gelato. A couple of Africans sitting on the far side of the steps were selling fake branded bags. The moment they saw their nemesis in uniform they’d scram, folding their wares.

The getaway, we noticed, was quick and clean. They first spread a sheet on the ground, put all their bags on it, and when they see police, the just bring the edges of the cloth together, which becomes a sack, and vamoose. Reminded us a lot of Del-boy from Only Fools and Horses, who posts Rodney to look out for “Old Bill”, which he never does.

The government has devised quite an effective way to stop the fake market by shifting the responsibility entirely onto the consumers. There are signs everywhere about ‘bad bags” and how much you will be fined if you are caught with one. Naturally, you’d think more than twice before buying a fake.

Went to a restaurant called Cavatappi near San Marco area after visiting a store that sold Campers and a new interesting brand called Kowalski. The first two glasses of Cabernet were tolerable but the subsequent ones were just vinegar. Left the second one unfinished, bought a couple of Hello Venezia bags from an elderly person selling it opposite the bar for 7 euros. Walked to another TimeOut restaurant in another part of town for dinner. Antica Trattoria Bandierette, very nice food. Wine was so-so. Next to it was a shop selling pizzas ranging from personal size to cycle-tyre size. Bought some mozzarella balls and fried olives but couldn’t finish them. Walked through a couple of unfamiliar alleys, and decided to retrace the steps and follow the familiar path back, but not before filling the bottle at a fountain.
San Marco was lively at 9 pm, with well, live bands playing outside restaurants. They take turns, when one band finishes his piece, the guys at the next restaurant pick up, thus avoiding cacophony.

Mario’s friendly gun at the head meant grappa down the throat. We saw where he lived, just next door to us. Chatted with another guest a while before hitting bed.

The water heater hasn’t been working for the last two days. So every day had to tell Mario first thing in the morning, then he’d curse under his breath, ask the tap be ‘averto’ meaning keep it open, then it would be ok after a while. He had to climb up a ladder in his room to the attic where the controls were, this would have been a cinch but for his strained ankle.


15/9/05
Thursday

Pretty easy day. Started out by 10.30. Went to Santa Maria Miracula. When we reached there we discovered it was the other side of the church we were at yesterday evening. Well, you explore and learn. Didn’t go in all the way, just stood at the entrance and admired from a distance. Once you’ve been to the Sistine Chapel, everything else pales. Had a Spritz at the café outside. Picked up a small up from the fried mozzarella ball seller we saw yesterday. Decent stuff.

Walked back, taking the route we didn’t want to last night owing to unfamiliarity. Reached San Marco side, closer to our hotel. Thought might as well go and rest a while since we were almost there. Found the maids cleaning the rooms. Waited in the lobby. Went in after 10 minutes, learnt from the maid who spoke decent English that Mario doesn’t own the place but looks after it. Rested for a couple of hours, went to via Garibaldi, bought a few things like risotto etc from a local shop, the guy told us we could buy Aperol 150 yards up from a shop on the left, which we did. Also bought a bottle of red for Mario.



Walked through a park, emerged on the sea front, walked back to say hello Manuela as she had asked us to come and say goodbye before leaving. Had a Spritz, asked about Manuela, to which the waiter said she was always late and how Napoli people are always talking. This north south divide is everywhere. On the second Spritz, Manuela came asking how could we leave this beautiful stretch. Immediately picked up a fight with Marco. He started it though. No one is happy at work.

Mario had suggested another place called Carpacio for dinner, but we decided to abandon that in favour of dining at the place where we had our first dinner in Venice. A couple of Spritzes and a half carafe of red can do strange things to you.

It can also put you in touch with very interesting people. It was the colour of our Spritz that started a conversation with the people, an elderly, distinguished looking gentleman and a youngish lady, next table. Theirs was darker. So we told them the difference campari and aperol respectively make to Spritz. It seems they met in India, which is interesting because they both hail from Fatherland (he looked more like Da Vinci with his beard and mustache). When he asked me where in India we were from, I said I was from the south and apu was from Mumbai, working on the assumption that most people have no clue about the south. Not this one. He asked which part of south, I said you may not have heard but it’s Coimbatore. He said of course he knew the place and that he spent a day there on the way to the Nilgiris. Turns out he spent a year in India, been to Thiruvannamali, Madurai (took part in the Kallalagar festival), Hampi and the works. He wishes to organize a foundation for artists from Germany and India, in India. He left us with his email id and rushed off to catch a play or something.
Went back to hotel, after finishing the half carafe red and not getting the pasta we asked for, which was just as well as we were too full on the mixed grilled fish. Tipped Manuela 2 euros for just being nice. Gave the bottle to Mario who wasn’t looking too cheerful on account of his aching ankle (Venice is just not the place for these kind of ailments) and being forced to give his room up to a guest. He said he’d have the wine once his foot healed and gave me a grappa which I couldn’t finish.





16/9/05
Friday

Breakfast. Photo with Mario. Left. Took the waterbus to Ferrovia, hung around for an hour or so. Bought 2 focacia sandwiches from the station cafeteria for the journey. [NOTE: The platform number for trains are rarely displayed 10 minutes before the train arrives, so there is always a mad rush to get in especially for infrequent trains, such as the ones to Venice from Florence, as we would find out later.] But we still had time to take a photo in front of the train, always wanted one like that.

When we were about to get in, a ticket collector type guy told us the train needs be cleaned so we can’t get in, but we saw others boarding and went to the far side to board and the same guy was coming down that way too telling us to board later. We told him others are boarding and just got in, leaving him mumbling. Turned out the seats were one after the other and not facing each other as was displayed on the ticket machine when we booked. “That’s Italy,” said the couple next to us who had the same problem. Don’t know where they are from. Finished the sandwich. Reached Florence 10 minutes late.

Florence – Again. Santa Maria Novella. Again. Duomo. Again. Feels like a sequel. And almost thought it would be a disappointing one, as the taxi driver who took us to Martin Dago and the first couple of shopkeepers were uncharacteristically not warm. But things got better with time.

Gabriel at the B&B welcomed us with a big smile, said paper work can wait. (I tell my guests not to pay if they are not happy, he said. Not sure how far that was true, but we wanted to pay if that was the case.) We stayed at Reuben, a nice room with a spiral staircase that takes you to your sleeping quarters, so to speak. Down is a small room with the toilet, a TV that stands on a cabinet that houses the mini fridge. There’s a window that looks out onto some sort of garden.

Didn’t waste too much time at the hotel, went out to see if the rest of the city was the same since we left it last year. Almost. The fountain at Santa Croce piazza where I used to fill water was dry. We saw a couple of restaurants we went to there have extended into the open area across the road next to the church. Had an espresso at Café Rivoir, couldn’t find the pizzeria run by the elderly couple or McRae bookshop. Dinner at Il Francesca, different waitress, same delicious food, and good, inexpensive wine. Walked back to hotel.

17/9/05
Saturday

Met an Aussie couple at breakfast (which was croissant, some pie Gabriel had made, coffee and juice). On learning we were in advertising, the guy said his whole family, generations after generations, were in advertising. Told us his family story in the half hour we spent. Nice people.

Went to the bus stop, took a SITA bus to San Gimignano, you change bus at Poggibonsi, cross over to the other side and wait for the bus going the other way, ask the driver just in case, and hop on. We got the connecting bus in about 10 minutes. The whole journey takes about 45 minutes, if I remember right. You travel on the same ticket though and don’t have to validate it again at Poggibonsi.

San Gimignano is a beautiful little town. You can see its towers, numbering 12 (used to be more), as you near the town. Took a walk around the cobbled-stoned city which doesn’t very long to cover, so in about half an hour of buying pasta condiments, pasta measuring tools (it’s a wooden spatula type thing with holes that say how many persons it’s for, so you stick that much spaghetti through that hole), sauce etc, you are ready for the world’s best ice-cream at geletaria di plazzi in the main square piazza della Cisterna. Excellent stuff. They have photographs of various celebrities enjoying their ice cream. It was way better than Vivoli both in terms of portion and price. It was just 1.50 euro, before that had some pizza at an empty pizzeria, good stuff.

Got to the bus stop 40 minutes early, By the time we made an acquaintance with a woman biker from SF, and learnt that she was a medical rep, married, separated, etc., a full blown crowd had gathered at the small bus stop, and it had started to pour. Something about us and Siena trips. It had rained the last year we went to Siena too. The bus dropped us at Poggibonsi, curiously we were asked to cross over to take the bus back to Florence. The same place we had taken the bus to San Gimignano from. The rain didn’t let up. After an hour, a Florence bound bus came on the other, logically correct side of the road, and we made a dash for it, got in just in time to see another Florence bound arrive at the stop we had just vacated, empty. Anyway, we continued, turned out the bus took a longer way around, reaching Florence 90 minutes later. Rain builds pressure on the bladder, luckily the train station (close to the bus stop) has very clean toilets that let you use them for 70 cents I think. Don’t fret if you don’t have change, there’s a machine changes your euros.

Walked back to the hotel, bought water for 45 cents (1.5L) at a super mercati which was just 3minutes from our place. (They don’t put the stuff in a bag for you, you have to do it yourself.) We went to a restaurant next door to the hotel called Cibero (TimeOut). Tables were few and guests were not, so we had to squeeze and share table with a Japanese couple with whom we struck a conversation later. One of those fancy, Anthony Bourdain type places where the dishes are decorated, look small and beautiful, and occupy about 10 cms of a huge plate. But belying their size, the food we ordered filled us up. Had a very different papa pomodoro, it was almost like a paste. Waiting for the second course, talked to the Japanese couple, he was taking photographs of the dishes with a small, flashlight/power drill looking camera, made by Sanyo. Told him to watch Kurasawa movies as he hadn’t watched many. He said he was an air-com maintenance guy. When I mentioned Muthu, he immediately recognized the name, and started doing a little dance jig. Small world indeed. Talking about Rajnikant to a Japanese couple in Florence.

18/9/05
Sunday

Met a couple, both were guys, from Mexico, at breakfast, usual conversation. Went out, was drizzling, decided against going out of the city. Walked to piazzale Michelangelo on the other side of the Arno river. After a good hour’s (maybe more) walk, reached the the top of a small hill, where Michelangelo apparently a palace but never lived there. A copy of David looks out onto the town below. He couldn’t appreciate the view which was fantastic. Took an ATAF bus #13 back, at 1.50 euro each.

Walked back from the bus stop through parts of the city we didn’t visit on our last trip. There was a bustling marketplace where you could get jackets, shawls, watches and tee shirts. Bought a drape-type shawl there and a T-shirt round the corner at San Lorenzo square. Had lunch at a decent place near Piazza Republica, opposite the cinemas. Lido as a name for cinema halls seems to a favourite everywhere in the world. On the way back, found McRae and the pizzeria run by the elderly couple which was closed today on via de Neri. Bought another little big cookbook at McRae, returned to hotel, rested and went out by 7 for a nice dinner at Baldavino. Sat at the table behind the one we sat the last time we came here in 2004.

In most of these restaurants, as we would discover again and again, there is only one or two waiting staff who take care of guests, and even if the service charge is inclusive in the bill, they never frown, scowl or show impatience. The service is almost always warm and friendly.

19/9/05
Monday

Went to Greve, Chianti. A 40-minute bus ride takes you to Greve, the first stop in Chianti, there are a couple of other stops you can alight at if you are interested. Reminds you of any hill station back home, only these regions grow olives and grapes.

Got off, went looking for nothing in particular, found a closed information centre across the road and restrooms that weren’t. The coin-operated machine wasn’t working, so people were saving 50 cents, the manifolds of which they spent on wines. Crossed over to the main piazza with the customary man on horse statue. Picked up a recipe book, and had lunch at a nice place next door. Ambled further and into a wine cellar. In case you are not sure what is a good year for a particular wine, just look at their recommendation, which is stuck on the shelves. They are rated by star system, so it’s easy to pick. We picked up a case of 4 bottles. While we were browsing shelves and compartments that had wines from as early as 1960, we heard a noise that one shouldn’t in a cellar: that of a bottle breaking. A kid ran out, maybe it was his fault maybe it wasn’t as his mother was trying to explain, but the shopkeeper seemed not very worried. Probably the wine didn’t hail from a good year. He didn’t speak English much, so when we asked about a ’69 wine which was at a jaw-dropping 30 euros, he said, ’no guarantee’. The shop has some really old wines for reasonable euros.

Caught an empty bus back to Firenze. It’s a probably a European thing but it is really nice to see everyone greet everyone else. Whether you’re boarding a bus or entering a shop, you say Bon Giorno or Buena sera depending on the time of day, and Ciao, Grazie when you alight or leave. In India, it gets taken for granted, though we have other ways of greeting, a smile a gesture…

Had dinner at Osteria de Benci. Lovely food. While waiting for the restaurant to open we walked into a shop next door, run by an elderly lady. Bought a ‘good-luck’ grains basket, the story of which goes back to the days when the farmers saw a revival in their produce or something like that. Tried to by an old fashioned set of writing instruments, which has a nib, attached to a wooden stick, a bottle of ink and a set of nibs of varying widths. I couldn’t make her understand what happens when the ink gets over and if I could use any other ink.

When we came out de Benci was still not open for food, so we sat and had ‘uno carafe rosso’ and in about ten minutes we were shown a table on the restaurant’s side. Interestingly, some of these restaurants have a commendable policy of not making you walk away even if what you want is not there. For instance, restaurants have a bar/café that doesn’t close when when the restaurant does, thus ensuring the patrons remain on the premises till the food is served, at the same time getting them to spend on wine or snacks.

20/9/05
Tuesday

Up early, had time for kriya and meditation. Took a slow train to Lucca. The slow train was like our ‘passenger’ trains back home, stopping every time some one waved to the driver, and reached Lucca after an hour and forty minutes.

Found our way into the town which was pretty and small. In 15-20 minutes we had covered more than half the place, while directing a pair of tourist ladies to the amphitheatre, thinking how could get anyone get lost here. There was a horse carriage carrying a couple around the city with the driver pointing at various places saying, ‘ 15th century’ etc.,

After finding our TimeOut place closed, we took a chance at a place (La Triestina) near the amphitheatre that was almost closing down and found the food and the service very warm and nice. I ordered pasta maccherencino al pomedoro e basil. I was expecting macheroni but was pleasantly surprised to find pasta sheets cut at different lengths. Apparently that’s what maccherencino is: pasta sheets cut at random lengths. Apu had pizza siciliana, again very nice. Lot of students were hanging about, no mystery there as Lucca is a university town.

Took a walk around on ramparts surrounding the town. Beautiful. At some point, some soldiers must have demanded, ‘Halt, who goes there?’ Walked back to the station, took longer to find our way though. Made it just in time for the 5 pm train, which was five minutes late. After assuring other passengers that it was indeed going to Firenze, got in. This one was a plush type, air-conditioned with decent seats like the one we took to Padova. But it was just as slow, reaching Florence at 6.20.

Had dinner at Osteria de Macci, recommended by Gabriel. The restaurant was on the same street as MartinDago. Excellent food and wine. Again just two people serving with not a frown or sign of irritation.

21/9/05
Wednesday

Did some last minute shopping. Finally, had lunch at the pizzeria we had visited last year on via de neri. Came back, rested, asked Gabriel where we could buy some ham to take back for some friends in Singapore. He said to go to Grana market, a store run by his friend (he has friends everywhere in the city), that sells meat, cheese, sauces and pasta etc., on via tavolina off calizuoli. When we informed the store guy we were from Gabriel, the man beamed a smile and a lady stepped out from behind the counter to help us. Had been to Jaipur, she said, when she was really small, as part of work. She found it beautiful. Bought some proscuito, cheese. In the evening, went to il ritrova, a restaurant recommended by Gabriel, of course he had a friend there, who was a lady, a model, who had posed for a sculpture which is in Rome now. Lovely service, lovely food. And again, just two people serving the increasing crowd. (It’s on via de pucci, look carefully as it’s easily missable, you have to climb down a few steps to enter the restaurant). She didn’t speak English but made up for it with great service. On the way out, said ‘buon compliano’ which means happy birthday to a lady celebrating her birthday.

Went back, finished paperwork, paid up, and asked Gabriel to show us the secret balcony the Aussie couple had mentioned. It was on the terrace, overlooking the city. There was a fridge on the landing, which Gabriel stocks with beer etc at no cost. If you feel like returning the favour, stock it up.

22/9/05
Thursday

Got up early, just had enough time to grab a nibble of the pie Gabriel had baked and say good-bye. The cab he had booked last night was downstairs. He helped us with the luggage, which had become a bit heavier with the 20-odd brochures of MartinDago which he had just received the previous day. ‘Give it to your friends in Singapore,’ he said.

Reached Santa Maria Novella early, bought a sandwich for the journey. Like mentioned elsewhere, the platform number of the train is given only about 10 minutes before it arrives. We didn’t feel it the last time we were in Italy probably because the trains to our destinations were more frequent than to the current one, namely, Venice.

So there was a mad rush when the train came, with people running all over the place. After a fair amount of pushing and shoving, got to our seats, which was facing each other this time.

Reached Santa Lucia, found out we had to cross the road and take a right to reach the bus station at Piazzale Roma, from where we can take a free shuttle service to Marco Polo airport. 5 minutes, the girl at the tourist information counter said. For superman maybe, for ordinary folk like us (even with light luggage), it took us about 10-15 minutes. Remember the bridges? Well, there were two of them to climb up and down before we reached the ACTV bus stop (there was a big woman offering to help with luggage for a price of course, which we declined). ACTV operates free bus service to the airport, which leaves every half hour. Bus no.5 leaves from stand (or bay, if you prefer) no.1A. No trouble finding the platform (or bay, if you prefer), the bus came almost immediately. After checking with the driver it was free, got in. Checked with another guy who asked us if it was going to the airport that it was free.

Reached Marco Polo in less than half an hour, well in advance. Had a bite at the café (very nice yoghurt), had our cloth bag wrapped in the plastic for 7 euros. They insure it against theft, damage etc.,
The flight was delayed by 30 plus minutes. Staff were friendly. Was talking to her about living in Venice with all the tourists. She said when the water level rose during her school days, they used to walk, as waterbuses wouldn’t operate.

Reached Amsterdam with enough time to catch our connecting flight. When we were almost boarding we were informed of a technical fault that would delay us by an hour. Luckily we had had something to eat. We were given free bottles of water. We saw a white guy (Caucasian is limiting in scope, he sounded like he was from place in England could have been from anywhere in Europe), stashing enough of these free bottles of water to last a month on the Sahara. He had at least 15, 20 bottles. These kinds of people are everywhere. In Singapore it is called the ‘kiasu’ mentality. Evidently, it transcends borders and class. You would think someone with enough money to afford a plane ticket and “culture”, from a “developed” country, would have more sense. But no.

The flight was delayed by another hour. This time we were given a voucher worth 5 euros, which we used to buy a cognac, a glass of red wine and something to eat. Was talking to an Australian guy who was trying to take photos of the stationary plane for his son. Finally, boarded the plane, after a two-hour wait, at midnight. The food was refreshingly tasty. Pasta! Reminding ourselves never to ask for Asian vegetarian, settled down for the long journey back to Singapore.

23/9/05
Friday

Reached home.

italy 2004

ITALY TRIP
Day 1 – 7/9
All roads may lead to Rome but the signs could be a bit confusing, especially at the Da Vinci (Fumicini) airport and the Central Stazione. After a 13-14 hr flight from Singapore on Thai (with an hour at Bangkok, btw, not many smiles contrary to their claims, on board or off) we landed at 8 in the morning. Breezed through the immigration (it’s only the visa people who make life difficult, it would seem their primary function is to deter anybody from entering their country and spending money on their soil).
It’s a fairly big airport and, after asking directions to the Leonardo Express to go to the Central stazione, we promptly went to a completely different place. Must have been the really strong caffe we had at the coffee shop. Retracked, re-asked and found our way to the station which is outside the terminal. Bought ticket, and here’s a quick lesson: you have to validate your ticket on most trains in Italy except on EuroStar. What you need to do is look for a yellow box like thing at the head of the platform and try not to feed your ticket, which is what we did. You’re supposed to hold the ticket and insert it till you hear an invisible man go ‘frrrrp’ and you’re ready to board the train. The ride to centre takes about 20 minutes.
At the station, which is quite big again, we took the wrong exit and almost hired a solitary taxi guy looking for suckers. But he didn’t count on meeting two well-informed tourists (even though he had the SPQR sign on his taxi he wasn’t an honest one – not everyone with the approved sign displayed are what they seem). We had checked well in advance how much the fare would be (7 – 8 euros), so we were not going to just hand him the 20 he asked for. He stopped and we got off. Back to the Stazione, this time we walked for what seemed like half an hour, 10 minutes in real, earth time, found the right exit, the right taxi stand and a long queue. There was a tout but we ignored him. About 15 minutes we got a legit taxi, showed him where the hotel we had booked on the Net was on a map, he said,’ si, si’ and took us there in less than 5 minutes. It cost 7 euros. Honesty calls for a tip and we tipped him a euro I think.
The hotel was on one of Rome’s main attraction, the Spanish Steps. Went to the building with the right door number but the hotel wasn’t there. There was a keypad like thing with various floor numbers and pierret palio bianco was on 4. When pressed the receptionist came online and asked us to come up. In the foyer of the building was an elevator straight out of a Bogart (he probably used it last) movie. Took that up to our floor, Jada, the receptionist, said a big welcoming Hi and showed us our room. Nice place, a bit small but clean and comfortable. It was past 10 and no breakfast but she made superb cappuccino for us.
Went to explore. Right next to the hotel was the Spanish Steps. Opposite that is a street that has boutiques carrying all the names associated with haute couture, from Armani to Zegna, sort of a fashion street, to coin a phrase. Running perpendicular, like a T, is del Corso, with Piazza del Popollo on the right end and Piazza de Venezia on the left. We took the right and had a bite at one of the cafes there opposite Santa Maria (Italy has a lot of Santa Marias) called Café Canavo, at a distant past it used to cater to right wing activists as opposed to the other restaurant across which welcomed, you guessed it, leftists. They serve (not just them) Pizza Bianca or plain pizza with salt and olive oil, we’ve never had it anywhere else. Also had the first tryst with expensive atmosphere. In Italy, most restaurants charge you more if you are sitting down al fresco than they would if you stood at the bar and had your food or coffee.
Walking, we thought was a good way to work off the lunch, so we walked straight into a gelataria. Never knew a cone could hold so much ice cream. Walked further down del Corso and we reached the Pantheon. First tourist spot and we didn’t even check the map. Also the first encounter with Rome’s history. As with all of Rome’s attractions it’s the scale on which these structures are built that’s mind boggling. This one was built as a temple to pagan gods, later became ‘baptised’ and now receives tourists. It’s a circular building with tombs dedicated to various masters of the Renaissance period including Raphael around the periphery. There are statues above them. The dome has a hole in the middle that lets in rain and the floor has 22 holes to let it out. Ancient plumbing.
Walked back and crossing the road, hit the Trevi fountain. Another impressive thing about the Eternal City is that at an innocuous street corner you’ll find a monument built by Bernini or Michelangelo. This is one such attraction. Crowds, eager to come back, throw coins into the fountain (hope springs eternal and all that). We did too, of course we didn’t know we were supposed to throw it over the shoulder so we just chucked it in.
It was evening already and after looking briefly at a massive structure (there was a man in the middle of the road trying to fit it into his view finder) we moved on. Later we’d realise that all roads in Rome lead to this place, called the Piazza de Venezia, just as we’d discover later that all roads in Florence lead to the Duomo.
On the way back, we stopped at Café Greco, a favourite haunt for the likes of Lord Byron and Casanova. (coincidentally, Keats and Shelly house is just next to the Spanish Steps next to our hotel). Very good coffee. They don’t serve dinner as they close at 7.30 but you can order salads and pastries. The guy making the coffee asked us where we were from. ‘Oh India? I’ve been there once, Bombay, 15 years ago,’ he reminisced. Hit hotel after coffee.
For dinner went to a place supposedly graced by Madonna. I made an exception to the thumb rule ‘when you are used to vegetarian fare, stick to it’. I didn’t like the chicken I ordered. Apu had a vegetarian dish which was good. The wine wasn’t bad.
Day 2 – 9 Sep
Breakfast in room. Capuccino was as good as yesterday and as lukewarm. Some berad rolls, jam, yogurt and juice. Out of the hotel and turned left to mill among the tourists who had already started to trickle in to the Spanish Steps. Walked to the Spagna metro which was at the end of the small gulley next to the hotel. Bought tickets at a shop that sells water, cigarattes etc., (opposite this shop was another booth selling metro tickets). Peaceful ride, no need to hold onto your belongings for you dear life. Just like any other metro. Stations reminded us of the ones in Spain. Changed trains at Termini, took the blue line (we were on red line, metro is simple in Rome, just two lines, blue and red, or Linea A and B that cross Termini) to Colosseum, about 3 stops from Termini and 5 from Spagna.
The ancient theatre of bloody, cruel sports (not unlike today's Old Trafford) rises up to meet you as you emerge from the metro. It’s true what they say about Rome being an open air museum, right outside a metro, a 2000 year old monument! Went past a few, ‘Do you speak English? I can be your guide and help you cut the queue’, guides. Harmless, not too pushy. Most were women.
The queue wasn’t long. Took us about 15 minutes (that’s what it says on the board above the counter, 15 mins for individuals and 10 for groups) to get the ticket and an audio guide. Stepped on the ground where senators and slaves, gladiators and glory hunters, victors and victims played out their roles thousands of years ago. Amazing! You would imagine a massive structure like this would have been witness to feats that were a celebration of lofty human ideals like courage, sportsmanship, the endurance of human spirit and the like, instead of just blood and gore. Come to think of it, much of today’s sports isn’t any different, the baying for blood on soccer stadiums all over the world during derby matches, or the deep-rooted hatred that surfaces during matches between neighbours no matter what the sport, but the only difference is no one dies, unless of course one is a South American soccer player who scores an own goal in an international fixture. Not much in the way of progress, it would seem.

Lunch at a Time Out recommended restaurant called Café Café close to the Colosseum. Wooden tables with recycled paper mats and paper napkins in a cone shaped pocket, like a flattened version of what a peanut vendor back home gives his goods in. Food was good, as was the wine. Reasonable price. There were just two staff members attending to an almost packed place: a guy and a girl with the latter doing most of the work with no signs of stress or irritation. Deserved a tip.
Walked from there in the general direction of Roman Forum. We were walking on the road that leads away from the Colosseum, not sure how to get into the Forum, and decided to take a photograph when a couple on a bike stopped to ask us the same thing. Two minutes after admitting ignorance we found the entrance which was a bare 20 yards from where we were standing.
The Roman Forum was a place where ancient Romans used to meet and gossip, about 2000 years ago, Some of the remains are still there, columns that must have supported some massive structure now looking up to the sky, broken stones with half the inscriptions missing, boulders from days gone by that must have been part of some hall…another proof to the city’s open air museum sobriquet. Stumbled onto a where St. Peter and St. Paul were incarcerated.
On the way out saw this massive square. There were two huge, absolutely huge, sculptures of an old man on either side of a fountain. In front of it was a statue of Caesar on horseback, As you step away from it to admire its massive scale you realize it’s in the middle of an intersection, then you also realize all roads in Rome lead to Piazza Venezzia. From there we took a route which would become a familiar one later. Back by 6 pm.
Another Time Out restaurant for dinner. This was close to the hotel, called Il Margutta. A leisurely 10, 12 minute walk from the Spanish Steps (the road on the right and take a right again) is all it takes. It’s at the end of the street. Superb service. Lovely wine, (Antonutti Merlot 15 euros). Great food. ( I had spinach ricotta soufflé with parmigiano sauce and Apu had lasagne di pachino with a totally delicious dessert: blanc mange, has mascarpone in it among other things). And completely vegetarian.
Day 3 – 10/9
Breakfast in room, same fare. Took the train to metro Ottaviano, that’s where the Vatican is. Yesterday we had called a tour guide highly recommended by Apu’s colleague. A company called Icon Tours. He said for us to wait near the obelisk and look out for guide looking character carrying a blue folder. The guides over here use a folder, or an umbrella or a banner with the company’s name on it and lead their respective groups, It works especially in a place which sees millions of visitors every day. A shoot was in progress on the way to the Basilica at the street corner. Some crowd had gathered thinking the St,Peter’s basilica isn’t going anywhere but the shoot may shift location soon.
The obelisk which is the centre of San Pietro Piazza with Bernini’s elliptical collonade on either side. There were two fountains on either side of the obelisk as well, one of them, you guessed it, was designed by Bernini. Bernini and Michelangelo seemed to have designed and built every possible fountain, monument and café in Rome.
Vatican may be the smallest state in the world but its power as the seat of Catholicism is expressed through vast scale of San Pietro. Starting from the colonnades to the basilica and its impressive architecture to the imposing, awe inspiring paintings and sculptures inside the museum. Mainly because the masters at work were imposing and impressive to say the least.
Michelangelo lived here till the ripe age of 90 and didn’t get paid for more than a handful of assignments farmed out by the Church. Free masterpieces! Recommended by Bramen to the pope looking for someone to paint the Sistine chapel ceiling, Michelangelo takes up the job. That he was not very popular among his peers was evident from Bramen’s recommendation, which stemmed more from his desire to see Michelangelo fail than from giving any noble intention of helping a fellow artist.
But Michelangelo, known only for his sculpting skills, takes up the job. His FIRST fresco! And what better place to begin than the Sistine chapel. Soon world gets around of his need for assistants to something big. Sure enough, scores of artists converge on Rome to work with the master. After 2 years, he fires them all! Not because he isn’t happy with them, but because he has learnt all he had wanted to about fresco and wants to hog the glory for the effort. If you look at the first three panels, which took about 2 years, they are quite different from the rest, which also were finished in 2 years! The first three lack details, proportions etc.,
Busted myth: He didn’t paint lying on his back, he was standing on the scaffolding he designed and built. At the end of the project his knee was inflamed from years on his feet which finds its way in one of the panels. [Another myth that was busted was about Nero playing the violin when the city was on fire. Two things were slightly off with this myth. One, he was in his bath at the time of the fire. Two, the violin hadn’t been invented then. So there is little truth in the stories about a violin placed in the box with the sign above saying, ‘ in case of fire, break glass’. ]

No photography is allowed inside the chapel, no talking and no noise. Ironically, the guards yelling ‘Silence’to people who couldn’t keep their mouth shut, understandably, at the awe-inspiring masterpieces above, was louder than the collective murmur they were trying to shush.
Many little interesting details surfaced about the painters. It had almost all of the masters working on the project. Since they were not allowed to sign their name, they would leave a tell-tale sign. Some, for instance, would paint their self-portrait in the crowd. Or some, who were indebted to the fellow artist who taught them a trick or two, would show their appreciation by drawing their pet animal. Michelangelo, typical of his temperament, drew an unflattering painting of one of the popes who didn’t approve of his rendition of god, who is shown with his rear end to the admirers below.
The whole tour took about 4 hours. Douglas, the tour guide, offered to give a free tour of the Basilica to all those who hadn’t taken it before. We went with a couple of others, one of them a Spurs fan, from England. He said he and his wife were in Singapore a year or so ago.
The St. Peter Basilica. Massive. Ornate. Bernini and Michelangelo. You know the rest. The long letters along the wall were 6,7 feet though they look about 2 feet from ground level. Parallax error.
Thanked him profusely, and went to the restaurant (Francesco) he recommended in Piazza Novano area, crossing bridges built by Bernini. Good food. Nice atmosphere. While we were struggling with the menu to see how we could order I Italian, the guy came and offered some friendly advice, in English. There were people playing chess in the café opposite with a young man beating his older opponent and cackling loudly. Sicilian defence, I’m sure. Next to us sat what looked like a mafia family, complete with the head of the family speaking in a raspy, boss-like voice. No horse’s head was served though, barring the ones on chessboards opposite our table. Later went to a gelataria, recommended by Douglas, for the most delicious tartouffou. The place is called Trescalini, and right opposite is another equally good but considerably cheaper gelataria called café Columbia. In between the two is a Bernini fountain which represents the four mighty rivers of the world, Ganga being one of them.
Day 4 – 11/9
After the usual cappuccino, breakfast ritual, went looking for another Time Out eatery. After a long walk, just when we were about to give up, we found this little restaurant called La Zozone - a cramped place with two tables inside and maybe twice as many outside. They serve pizza Bianca with any three fillings/toppings. One more and the guy says, ‘no, finito’, moving his hands over the pizza. People were friendly, the crowd was increasing and the food was good.
Took another walk and found another Tartuffo place at Trescalini, different from and opposite to the one we went to last night. This was a lot cheaper without any compromise on the deliciousness of the dessert. When I went to the toilet, a large woman emerged from the men’s room, almost non-chalantly.
Got back after a long walk again. In the evening, the main thoroughfare, del corso was closed to vehicular traffic (this being Saturday was our logic), and there were just people milling around hogging the whole road.
At the hotel, Alberto, the receptionist, had a strange case of his 15 seconds. Apparently every time he looked out the window, the girls’ section of the tourists thronging the Spanish Steps went wild thinking he was a celebrity. He wasn’t too bad looking either.
After freshening up, went to another Time Out recommended restaurant for dinner. Matricinella. Service wasn’t all that good, a bit on the cold side. Donated one euro to a budding accordion player for exhibiting his skills for less than a minute. Just as we were ruing it another three piece band played really well and deservedly got their one euro.
Back to hotel. Packed for tomorrow’s train trip to Florence.
Day 512/9/04
Firenze

To exhibit our prowess as a local, we decided to take the metro to the Termini. We were pleasantly surprised at the organized way Trenitalia was running the show. Figured out the coach no. and seat no. on the ticket. Confirmed with the lady at a desk at the head of the platform (there’s one at the head of each platform, they are friendly and helpful who answer all your inane questions about the train schedule etc.,) and we were set to board. Since we were early, we had some time on our hands, which we used to buy a nice, detailed map of Florence at the station’s book store (a one litre bottle of water was less than a euro) and indulge in a quick flash-back of how we were running around the Termini trying to figure out about taxis and such, four days can make you something of an expert. Came back and the train was waiting. Boarded the train but the door to the cabin wouldn’t open, despite pushing buttons that seemed to be there for that purpose. An Italian guy from behind was trying to tell something in native tongue, which we figured was, not to mess around with the button (which looked like a sticker), all we had to do was to stand in front of the doors and they would open. Put the suitcases in the storage bin near the door and the rest in the overhead compartment. Stretched our legs and traveled in style to Firenze.
It took 90 minutes to Santa Maria Novellla, Florence. No trouble finding a taxi. No trouble with the taxi guy or finding the place. He was honest and hence deserved a euro tip when he dropped us at La Stanza Da Croce. An envelope with my name on it was on the front desk as we were told in our email it would, And the owner, Mariangela, was waiting upstairs for us. Intro. Smiles. Quick advice on where to eat etc., To the room. Very nicely furnished with a terrace.
Stepped out to explore and when we came back, we realized we had covered half the city! The place she had directed to for lunch was closed so we went across the square and ate a nice panini at a small sandwich place with non-descript team playing a soccer match. Found a nice little bookshop further on called McRae, bought TimeOutFlorence and a book on Indian mythology called ‘Ka’. Kanna had mentioned it sometime back. All roads in Florence lead to the Duomo.

Day 6 13/9
Museums close Mondays in Italy but you can book, so we booked (Mariangela did) tickets to two museums for tomorrow. We were the only ones today. Break fast was decent, met her son, Filipo, who has finished doing art in London and is contemplating a beginning in NYC, told him London was better, which immensely pleased the mother as she thought NYC was too far.

Out exploring again. Went to Pone Vechchio where Ferragamo began his humbnle career stitching leather shoes. There are lots of little bridges across the Arne river. On the way back, after booking tickets to Milan at one of the ticketing machines (as we did in Rome, very convenient)at S.M.N, discovered a nice little pizzeria run by an elderly couple. Excellent pizza slices, very cheap. 8 euros for lunch for 2! Rested tired feet at La Stanza, went out Boldavino which was right next door for dinner. As usual, the food was good as was the service.
Day 7 - 14/9
Museum Day! First stop, Galleria. David. Great stuff. Before you reach David, there are 4 slave statues trapped in marble blocks. Apparently (according to Douglas, the Rome guide), Michelangelo used to go around feeling various marble blocks to “release” the statue within – an exercise that would sometimes take months! Once he was clear in his mind, he would then proceed to chisel out the statue. That was his mission, to release statues held captive in marble blocks by Nature. David is beyond description, simply stunning. How did he get so much details, right down to veins on David’s hands, just baffles one’s mind.
Lunch and off to Ufizzi. More Michelangelo and some da Vinci. (we extended our stay by two more days till Thursday, it was all full on Friday, so Mariangela had booked us at a 16th century convent, which is now a hotel near Academia). The average human system is not designed for a lot of museum-seeing in one day. Or even over many days. Overdose kicks in after 10 works of art sometimes. Once you’ve seen the masterpieces, the rest is just a daze-through. Personally, I found the theme of these artists quite limited. Everyone does Madonna and the child, Crucifixion, deposition … it keeps recurring, a bit numbingly, I must admit. It’s only the different ways in which the artists capture these images that make it interesting. Had dinner at Boccadama, another of the many Enoteca Ristorantes surrounding Santa Croce. It had started to rain by the time we finished wine and it was pouring down quite hard when we finished dinner. When it let up a bit, we ran across the piazza to the hotel – the benefit of dining near your hotel. PS: Like in Rome, Firenze too has drinking fountains in its piazzas. Very handy, saves you a euro or two.

Day 8 - 15/9
It had rained all night. The day was fresh and crisp. After breakfast, gave some agency names to Phillipo, Stopped over at Rivoire for a nice cup of espresso (apu had cappuccino) which we had standing at the bar as it’s less expensive than having it sitting down al fresco. And quite practical too, if you’re in a hurry.

Walked to the station. No plans yet, Siena or Pisa. INFO: You can’t change reservation details at the machine which issues tickets.
So queued up to change travel date to Milan to go on the 18th. But forgot to buy tickets to Pisa, though. Queued again, bought tickets, 1 class. But couldn’t find first class as all said II class. Had a decent ride though. Reached Pisa in an hour or so, walked to a Time Out restaurant but it was closed. They close on odd days here. So went to a pizzeria and had a cheap but filling slice of pizza. A half hour walk (maybe 15 mins) brought us to the Leaning Tower. It’s about 6 storeys tall with a “pent house” like structure. To me it looked like an over-sized tiffin box carrier, fixed at a tilted angle.
While other tourists took photographs of themselves pretending to push the tower back, guys were working actually to keep it from falling. There are a couple of nice domes in the same area.
Walked back (seemed shorter) shopped, took the train back (you’re supposed to pull the lever, not push the button next to the door, to o pen it).
Dinner at il Francesco, recommended by an English couple we met at breakfast, the guy was a man yoo fan. Great food, superb service. The waitress actually explained every dish on the menu, which was in Italian of course. House pour was five euros for a half litre carafe!
PS: For some reason, Pisa had more photocopying (fotocopy) shops than any other place we’ve seen so far.

Day 9 – 16/9

Breakfast. Bus station. Very friendly staff. Even though they didn’t speak English, they were very helpful. (The tour company type office next door that ran bus services to nearby places wasn’t all that friendly. And it was expensive too.) Took the 10.40 to Siena. Beautiful, scenic ride. It was pouring Italian dogs and cats when we reached. Took shelter at the bus stop for ten minutes. Started walking into town, ducked into the first shop that looked like it sold wind cheaters/jackets. Turned out to be a Bata shop. Bought a wind cheater and a pair of shoes that was quite reasonably priced. By the time we got out of the shop, the torrent had reduced to a drizzle. The town square, piazza, we went to next was beautiful. It was a huge square that sloped in to the centre with cafes and restaurants lining the fringe. Quick but not too good a lunch. Had coffee at a TimeOut café. Good stuff. Shopped for odds and ends, bought pasta, dried aglio olio that just had to be added to cooked pasta, cookies etc.,

Bus back to Florence. Had dinner at another nearby place – Osteria De Benci. Lovely stuff.

Day 10 - 17/9
After staying at Santa Croce area, we finally visited it this morning after checking out. It has Galileo’s tomb among a few others’, intricate work on the dome, stain glass paintings, impressive frescos. Good stuff. Had lunch at the friendly neighbourhood pizzeria run by the elderly couple.
Picked up the luggage, took a cab to Hotel Morandi, The cab driver was the first person we encountered in Italy who exclaimed Mamma Mia! It was over a woman driver. The hotel simply beautiful. It used to be a convent till the 16th century and it has been turned into a lovely, cosy little boutique hotel. Frescoes and oil paintings lined the walls. The staff were very friendly.
Strolled out, shopped for paper, wine etc., Had dinner at a wine shop owner’s restaurant who gave us his card and said to flash it for discount, which we did. Not bad.
Returned to the hotel, a place like this deserved to be spent time in. Each room had frescoes and paintings, even the little bar, where we went for a drink. The guy in charge, the night clerk, Maurizzo, was very generous with my Martell. For 6 euros it was almost a full glass. I even smoked a few cigarettes!

Day 11 – 18/99/
Maurizzo had promised breakfast at 11 euros for 2 (normally it’s for 1 person) last night. Decent breakfast. Tipped 5 euros.
To Santa Maria Novella station. Left for Milano. The train made an unscheduled stop at Parma, looked like another train had a breakdown and off loaded all its passengers onto ours. Soon they left, only to come back. The Japanese guy sitting next to us, totally unused to these kinds of interruptions in his home country, was completely puzzled and annoyed.” Why is this train delayed if another train broke down?” he was wondering.

Reached Milan an hour late. Long queue for taxi, but the queue moved fast. No hassles reaching the hotel. Taxi driver was just a city guy, no Florence charm or nice-ness here.
Went out after checking in, the street the hotel was on seemed a bit dodgy. There was a Bangladesh airline with Aishwarya Rai smiling from its wall. There was a Krishna alimentary, but it was closed all the time we were there. But the place was livelier when we returned after visiting the Duomo area. Most shops open after siesta, hence the deserted look when we started out.
The hotel guys couldn’t get us tickets to the Last Supper, even though I had called a few days earlier to check again. We were told to go to the tourist office near duomo and try. We booked for the city tour for tomorrow, which guarantees us a visit to the Last Supper.
The Duomo is impressive, about 15,20 minute walk from the hotel. The feel was a bit cold and distant, typical of a big city. It was even more apparent considering we were coming from Florence.
Came back by 8.30, had a cognac, dinner and went to sleep.

Day 12 – 19/9
Breakfast at hotel. Not too bad, the staff were looking hassled though. Walked to Duomo. Lunch at some non-descript place. We packed panini from the place we went to have coffee, and waited for the tour to start. It was an afternoon tour.
It began at 3 pm, at Duomo. Cathedrals are built along the design of a cross. The Duomo, was no exception, was begun in 1200s but was completed only in 1960. Went to another gallery. Last stop was Last Supper. It was incredible, we were standing in the very place where Da Vinci has stood centuries ago, painting one his many masterpieces. John looked like a woman, so the controversy sparked by Da Vinci code had something after all.
Had dinner at place near the Duomo, a bit expensive, but very nice stuff. The spaghetti pomodoro (served by an Inter Milan fan) was simple but lovely, like saaru anna with ghee my sister used to feed me when I was small.
Returned by 9/9.30.

Day 13 – 20/9
Shopped for more shoes, clothes and food stuff. Were back by 7.30. Had wine and pasta at the hotel restaurant. Thought of going to Switzerland, but shelved it as Schengen doesn’t cover it.

Day 14 – 21/9
Checked out by 10 am, after breakfast took taxi to Cordona station. Took the Malpensa Express (9euros each) to the airport. It was huge. The counter woman was friendly,told us where to get the tax thing done, did that, and boarded plane. Writing this somewhere over Europe/Asia. Still 5 hours plus to BKK. And 3 to 4 hours more to Singapore.

On the whole, it was a very nice trip. A word about Lonely Planet: avoid. They just scare people away from almost all destinations. To them every city is dangerous, every street corner requires you to be on guard. A case in point is Rome. They helpfully suggested that you need to blend in, walk confidently as if you know the place and look like a local. A tad difficult task when you have no clue where you are going, know nothing about the city and look 0% Italian ( at least we got mistaken for locals – happens everywhere, from Egypt to Spain and now Italy). But imagine you are Chinese or Japanese, just how the heck are you supposed to blend in? And we saw thousands of tourists with their camera hanging from around their necks, with their touristy attire complete with a confused expression half-hidden by the local street-map. Now, that’s blending in! Time Out, we found, was way better. Of course, don’t forget to do research on the Net. Ciao!